Trip Facts

• Country / Location: Nepal / Khumbu Region/Barun
• Starting / Ending: Ramechhap / Lukla
• Transportation: Car, Flight, Tourist bus
• Coordinates / Highest altitude: 27°52'19'' N / 86°58'55'' E / 7129m (23,389ft)
• Difficulty Grade / First Ascent: Mt. Baruntse Peu difficult (PD++) / Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow, May 30, 1954 by New Zealand expedition
• Arrival/Departure From Kathmandu (KTM)
• Accommodation: 3*** to 5***** as per scheduled itinerary
• Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing
• Culture / Include Activity: Sherpa Buddhism Tibetan / Trekking/Mountaineering/Glacier Safari
• Mode of Adventure: Tea House/Camping
• Himalayan Range / Climbing route: Makalu, Mera, Kanchanjungha / Southeast Ridge
• Duration / Best season: 33 Days / Spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
• Group Size: 02-10 People per group

Trip Highlights

• Trek and climb on the hidden areas of Everest and Khumbu region around pristine Inkhu Valley’
• Amphu Lapcha Pass 5,845m. (one of the most challenging high passes in the Khumbu region. It requires technically enhanced and experienced trekkers to complete the trail. The trek to Amphu Lapcha Pass is through the upper Inkhu valley.
• Trek and Climb of stunning Mera Peak and Mt Baruntse within the high hidden valley of Khumbu and the Everest region
• Exploring high-altitude Sherpa villages enriched with the ancient culture of the Buddhist religion
• Walking into lovely woodland of tall rhododendron-magnolia-firs-pines and juniper trees
• Adventure in complete wilderness away from the main flow of trekkers within high mountains
• Scenic short flight both ways from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu with awesome mountain panorama

Details of the camps established during ascent:

Base Camp (5,400 meters / 17,716 feet):

• Location: The Base Camp is typically set up at an altitude of around 5,250 meters, near the Barun Glacier.
• Facilities: Equipped with tents for sleeping, a dining tent, a kitchen tent, and communication facilities such as satellite phones or radios.
• Activities: Acclimatization hikes around the base camp area, preparation of climbing equipment, and rest before ascending to higher camps.

Camp 1 (6,135 meters / 20,128 feet):

• Location: Camp I is generally established at around 5,700 meters on a flat section of the glacier.
• Facilities: Tents for sleeping and a small kitchen setup. Facilities are basic due to the altitude.
• Activities: Climbers use Camp I for acclimatization and as a staging point for moving to higher camps. Rest and preparation for the climb to Camp II.

Camp 2 (6,420 meters / 21,060 feet):

• Location: Camp II is typically set up at around 6,400 meters on the Southeast Ridge.
• Facilities: Basic camping setup with tents for sleeping and minimal kitchen facilities. Essential gear and supplies are stored here.
• Activities: Further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers ensure all gear is ready and rest to conserve energy for the final ascent.

Camp 3 (optional, around 6,800 meters / 22,310 feet):

• Location: Some expeditions establish this camp if conditions require an additional stop.
• Facilities: Minimal, typically just tents.
• Activities: Rest and preparation for the summit attempt.

Summit Push

• Route: The final ascent to the summit involves navigating steep snow and ice slopes, including a prominent ice wall that can reach 50 degrees in steepness. Fixed ropes are typically used on the steeper sections for safety.
• Timing: Climbers usually start the summit push early in the morning, around midnight or 1 AM, to reach the summit by early morning and descend to lower camps by afternoon.
• Descent: After reaching the summit, climbers descend back to Camp II or Camp I for rest and recovery.

Additional Notes

• Weather: Weather conditions in the Everest region can be highly variable and unpredictable. Expeditions must be flexible with their schedules and prepared for sudden changes in weather.
• Permits: Climbing Mount Baruntse requires permits from the Department of Tourism (DoT) and other relevant authorities. Ensure all necessary permits are secured before the expedition.
• Guides and Support: Hiring experienced guides and porters is highly recommended for navigation, carrying equipment, and ensuring safety during the climb.
• Logistics: Due to the remote location, logistics such as transportation, food supplies, and emergency evacuation plans must be carefully planned and coordinated.

Preparation and Safety

• Training: Climbers should undergo thorough physical training and have experience with high-altitude climbing and technical routes.
• Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is crucial to avoid altitude sickness. Climbers should follow a carefully planned acclimatization schedule.
• Gear: Essential gear includes high-altitude clothing, climbing equipment (crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes), camping gear, and sufficient food and water supplies.
• Health and Safety: Climbers should have a comprehensive medical kit and knowledge of first aid. Awareness of symptoms of altitude sickness and immediate action in case of emergencies are vital.

Expeditions to Mount Baruntse require meticulous preparation, physical fitness, and careful planning to ensure a successful and safe climb.

Mera Peak and Mt. Baruntse Climbing Expedition Strategy:

• Acclimatizing at Mera Peak (6476 m)
• Mera High Camp
• Mera Peak Summit (6476 m)
• Baruntse Base Camp (5400 m)
• Bartunse Base Camp (5350 m)

After ascent over Mera, the team descends down approximately about 500m into the Honku valley and heads towards Baruntse Base camp. Climbers are assured with rich oxygen, warm weather and sunny spells making good conditions for a good night's sleep. The natural environment around is utterly desolate and utterly magnificent in its desolation.

Baruntse BC is at 5350 m, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From the camp set up immediately below the pass, it's easy to cross East Col to West col and reach C1 (6,146m) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This place the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for C2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC 2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 m is placed, from where the summit is attempted.

The team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike the glacier just outside of camp and spend a few sessions perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Xtreme Climbers Climbing Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. The hike features dirt trails, scrambles over rocks and crossing beautiful glaciers. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse Peak and then heading back to Baruntse BC.

Puja Day ( Rituals ) Ceremony: Base Camp - East Col - West Col - Camp 1 (6100m) Approx 8-9 hrs. In the morning before attempting our summit push a Puja ceremony, rituals are performed praying and asking permission to the god mountain for safe passage, success, and safety of the entire expedition team, which is customary before beginning a climb. Many of the western climbers participating take part by placing an object to be used in the climb -Crampons, Boots, and  Ice Axe - on an altar that was made from stones and adorned with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags. The ceremony is concluded with readings and ritual blessings.

Xtreme Climbers climbing Sherpa teams will fix the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas sets up the safest way through the crevasses, overhangs, and icefalls. Sherpa's team carried loads from basecamp at 5400 m to C1 at 6100 m and then returned to BC. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West Col which is the final ascent before reaching upon Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consists, a 45-50 degrees 200-metre high ice wall. Beautiful surrounding views of Baruntse, Makalu Ama Dablam, and the Amphu Labtsa which all the climbers will have to cross in a few days time when returning to Lukla.

C1 - C2 (6,400 m) or Advanced camp 2.1 (6,500 m) | Time approx: 3 - 4 hrs: Camp 2 (6,400 m) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse south-east. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle-like slope.

Camp 2 - Summit Push - Back to C2 or C1 | Time approx: 09-10 hrs: Technical Challenges at 6900 m ridge. Very sharp ridge at (approximately 6850m). The sharp ridge provides excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Sherpa team fixing the rope will assess the crevasse opening ridge and there is a consideration of adding a ladder at the top if needed. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further One and a half hours more climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu, and many other highest snow-capped panoramic views of the Himalayas. After several minutes of summit stand celebration your climbing Sherpa Guide will advise and help you through all to slowly start descending back to C2 or C1 safely to celebrate and recharge some energy in your body.