The Mt. Ama Dablam Climbing and Ski expedition is an exceptional adventure that combines technical climbing with exhilarating skiing on one of the Himalayas’ most striking peaks. At 6,812 meters, Ama Dablam’s sharply pointed, soaring ridges present a challenging and rewarding climb, ideal for seasoned mountaineers and expert skiers. This expedition is d...
The Mt. Ama Dablam Climbing and Ski expedition is an exceptional adventure that combines technical climbing with exhilarating skiing on one of the Himalayas’ most striking peaks. At 6,812 meters, Ama Dablam’s sharply pointed, soaring ridges present a challenging and rewarding climb, ideal for seasoned mountaineers and expert skiers. This expedition is designed for those with advanced technical skills and high-altitude experience, offering the ultimate test on steep snow slopes, mixed terrain, and extreme conditions.
Peak Profile: Ama Dablam, often referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” is renowned for its dramatic and aesthetically pleasing profile. Located in the heart of the Everest region’s Khumbu Valley, it rises prominently above Tengboche Monastery and Pangboche village. The peak's iconic shape makes it a coveted ascent for climbers from around the world, admired for its sheer beauty and technical demands. Reaching the summit of Ama Dablam rewards climbers with panoramic views of the Everest region, including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Makalu. The climb offers a comprehensive challenge, combining rock, ice, and snow climbing with the opportunity to ski down a high-altitude mountain.
Ama Dablam’s climb and Ski descent offer a complete and challenging alpine experience, combining technical climbing with high-altitude skiing. This expedition is designed for those who are not only skilled climbers but also adept skiers, seeking to conquer one of the Himalayas' most revered peaks.
- Name of Expedition: Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent / Descent Climbing Expedition.
- Country / Himal (Region): Nepal / Mahalangur
- Climbing Route / Climbing Grade: Southwest Ridge / Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
- Route Type / Difficulty / Climbing Grade: Mountaineering / Alpine 6 / I/II or Alpine PD+
- Climbing Duration: 4.N/5.Days Mt. Ama Dablam.
- Activities: Trekking, Peak, and mountain climbing.
- Climbing Elevation: 6,812m Mt. Ama Dablam (DoT)
- Total Duration of Trekking / Expedition: 13 days Kathmandu-Mountain-Kathmandu
- Technical Difficulty: The expedition is rated as highly challenging, requiring participants to have significant experience in high-altitude mountaineering, technical rock and ice climbing, and backcountry skiing. The steep, exposed sections of the climb, coupled with the technical demands of the ski descent, make this a trip for experienced adventurers only.
- Safety and Support: The expedition will be led by experienced guides with extensive knowledge of the region and the technical demands of Ama Dablam. Comprehensive safety measures, including fixed ropes, crevasse rescue training, and thorough acclimatization, will be in place to ensure a safe and successful climb and ski descent.
- Best Time to Go: The best time to attempt Ama Dablam is during the pre-monsoon (April-May) and post-monsoon (September-November) seasons, when weather conditions are most stable, and snow conditions are favorable for skiing.
- Iconic Peak: Ama Dablam, often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas," offers one of the most aesthetic and challenging climbs in the Everest region. Its sharp, soaring ridges and exposed camps make it a thrilling adventure for seasoned climbers.
- Technical Climb: The ascent involves a mix of rock, ice, and snow climbing, with notable sections such as the Yellow Tower and Mushroom Ridge requiring fixed rope techniques. The climb demands proficiency in using crampons, ice axes, and rope systems, making it suitable for experienced alpinists.
- Exhilarating Ski Descent: After summiting, climbers have the unique opportunity to ski down the mountain. The descent covers steep, technical terrain, with snow conditions varying from packed powder near the summit to softer snow at lower altitudes. Skiers must be prepared for mixed snow conditions and potential icy patches.
- High-Altitude Challenges: With camps established at altitudes of 5,700m (Camp 1), 5,950m (Camp 2), and 6,300m (Camp 3), the expedition requires careful acclimatization. Each camp offers stunning views and presents its own set of challenges, including exposure to high winds and extreme cold.
- Scenic Trek to Base Camp: The journey to Ama Dablam begins with a scenic flight to Lukla, followed by a trek through the beautiful Khumbu Valley. Trekkers will pass through traditional Sherpa villages, ancient monasteries, and lush forests before reaching the barren, rugged terrain of Ama Dablam Base Camp at 4,570m.
- Cultural Experience: Along the trek, participants will experience the rich Sherpa culture, visit monasteries such as Tengboche and Pangboche, and interact with local communities. The expedition also includes time in Kathmandu, where participants can explore the city's vibrant culture and historical sites.
Expedition Details:
- Climbing Route: The standard route via the South-West Ridge is the most popular and offers a mix of moderate to challenging climbing. The ascent includes:
- Camp 1 (5,700m): A moderately challenging section with rock scrambling and mixed terrain.
- Camp 2 (5,950m): A technical phase, involving steep ice and snow climbing along a narrow granite ridge.
- Camp 3 (6,300m): The final high-altitude camp, where climbers navigate around the hanging glacier, cross a sharp ridge and bergschrund, and scale the summit.
- Climbing and Skiing Preparation:
- Technical Skills: Required for negotiating steep ice, snow slopes, and mixed terrain. Proficiency in using crampons, ice axes, and fixed ropes is essential.
- Ski Descent: After summiting, skiers will experience thrilling descents on varying snow conditions, including packed powder and potentially icy patches.
- Camp Setup:
- Base Camp (4,570m): Located in a protected area with ample space for acclimatization and preparation.
- Camp 1 (5,700m): Set on a broad, snowy plateau with stunning views.
- Camp 2 (5,950m): An exposed ledge with limited space, requiring careful setup.
- Camp 3 (6,300m): Positioned on a narrow ridge, offering minimal space and high exposure.
- Climbing Schedule:
- Acclimatization and Training: Includes hikes, technical training, and ski practice around Base Camp.
- Summit Push: A challenging climb involving fixed ropes, ice, and mixed terrain, culminating in the summit and ski descent.
Expedition Features:
- Exclusive Experience: The XTREME CLIMBER’S Ama-Dablam 6,812m climbing and skiing expedition operates with a 1+1 ratio, providing each climber with a dedicated high-altitude Sherpa guide, ensuring personalized attention and safety.
- Expert Leadership: The expedition is reserved for climbers with proven high-altitude skills and technical experience, aiming for a successful and safe ascent of one of the world’s most technical peaks.
Climbing Route & High Camps Details:
- Ama Dablam 6812m Climbing Facts: From Base Camp, each day of climbing will last four to eight hours. The elevation from Base Camp to C1 is just over 1,000m (3,300 feet), which you can manage in about Four to Six hrs. You will also pass Yak Camp (5,100 meters/16,700 feet), an advanced base camp that may or may not be used. Once at Camp I, you will prepare for the technical part of your climb.
- C1 to C2 covers just over 300m (980 feet) in Three to Five hrs. You will make your way over granite blocks and head to the Yellow Tower, which features modest 4.11- and 4.8-grade climbing. The exposed ridges are exciting and will fill you with the necessary adrenaline to take on the Yellow Tower itself. From bottom to top, you will make 5.8-grade climbs. Once you top out, you are practically at C2 5900m.
- C2 to C3 is a 3 to 5. hrs endeavor and arguably the most challenging of your trip. It opens with an exposed ridge traverse to the Grey Tower, a loose but short multi-pitch. This portion of the climb is as challenging as it is fun. The next airy traverse leads you to Mushroom Ridge and a thin ridge walk. C3 sits at 6,277m (20,594 feet).
- C3-Summit and back to C1: The final push from C3 to the summit is another Five to Six-hrs affair. This is a great combination of mixed climbing that will reward you for the hard work (and any slogging) you had to do in the previous days. Fighting the cold, you don’t have to worry about any false summits before hitting the peak and looking out over the immense landscape below.
- C1 to Base Camp: same way, easy descent back to Base camp, rest, and relax overnight with a Hot meal.
- Arrival & Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation In Kathmandu: 2 nights 5*Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast Basis-Twin bed sharing Room.
- Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb / Ski Mt. Ama Dablam 6856m, Local VDC, and Sagarmatha National park entry permit, Camping and garbage management fee.
- Member transportation:
Overland Transportation: Kathmandu-Ramachap-Kathmandu (142. km 3-4 hrs) By Jeep, Car, or Van as per group and scheduled itinerary.
Domestic AIR Transportation: Fly from Ramechhap-Lukla-Ramechhap (15. minutes) as per the scheduled itinerary.
- Climbing Sherpa: Higley experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide (Everest+Ama Dablam Summiteers 1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa)
- Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Xtreme Climbers staff during the trek and expedition.
- Ropes: Fixed and dynamic Ropes as necessary with shearing all teams.
- Trekking Route Map: Trekking Route MAP will be provided
- Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by AirCraft) and from Lukla to Namche (By Porter) and Phortse to Ama Base Camp (By Yak and Porter) Depending upon condition and scheduled itinerary.
While returning: Base camp to Namche (By Yak) Namche to Lukla (By Porters) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by AirCraft).
- Member Luggage: Up to 30.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by a porter or Yak. NOTE: baggage more than 30.Kg p/p will be charged an additional cost.
- Lodging & Fooding during Expedition:
At Base Camp: Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff with Food 3 meals a day (BDL, including Tea and Coffee) along with accessible Tented accommodation
- Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base camp Cooks & kitchen Helpers as required will be available at B.C.
- Equipment: All Necessary equipment for Camping during the trek/expedition.
- Xtreme Climbers Duffel Bags / Sun Hat: 120.liter Duffle Bags for each Expedition Member and for the Trekkers 90. liter Duffel bags (2. Trekkers 1 Duffel Bags) and Sun Hat will be provided. NOTE: Used Duffel bags need to be returned after Trek or Expedition.
- Base Camp Equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillows per member, Dining, Kitchen, Dome Tet (for members), Toilet & Shower, staff tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gear.
- Base Camp and Camp Above: Each member will have an individual North-Face VE-25 tent in Base Camp. Base Camp Above C1-C2-C3 Tents for Members (Sharing Basis) and Climbing Sherpa. Base camp above High Food will be provided, including mineral water for everyone.
- Heater: A heater for the base camp will be provided if necessary.
- Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel or Generator for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
- Communication: A Radio Walkie-Talkie carried by will be carried by Climbing Sherpa and One Thuraya SAT Phone will be provided for emergency use only. For members (With an additional charge of USD.5 per minute).
- Oxygen and Mask Regulator: The Bootle of the Oxygen and Mask Regulator will be carried by Guide for emergency use only with an additional appropriate charge.
- Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porters' daily wages, salaries, equipment, food & clothing.
- Comprehensive Medical kit: A Comprehensive Medical kit will be provided for basic use only.
- Farewell Dinner: Farewell Dinner in a Tourist standard restaurant with Xtreme Climbers Staff.
- Airfare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days USD 120).
- Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of an earlier return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- Extra Night / Cost in Kathmandu / During Trip: The extra nights/cost accommodation in Kathmandu or any other places during the trip. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
- Insurance: Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical & emergency evacuation.
- Rescue Evacuation: Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation costs if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Medication, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization costs.)
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Filming: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa USD 750. minimum
- Tips: Calculate some tips for Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary or Any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
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