Trip Facts

• Location: Annapurna Massif, Nepal
• Elevation: 8,091 meters (26,545 feet)
• First Ascent: June 3, 1950, by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal (French Expedition)
• Summit Ski Descent: Extremely rare and highly challenging
• Expedition Duration: Typically 45-55 days (including acclimatization, ascent, and descent)
• Climbing Route: South Face (most commonly used for the ski expedition)
• Skiing Altitude: From the summit (8,091m) to Camp 1 (approx. 5,700m), with potential for further descent depending on snow conditions
• Difficulty Level: Extremely High (requires advanced technical climbing and skiing skills)
• Weather Conditions: Unpredictable; high risk of avalanches, crevasses, and sudden weather change 
• Guide-to-Client Ratio: Typically 1:2 or 1:3, depending on the expedition team
• Accommodation: Tea houses during trekking; tents at base camp and higher camps
• Communication: Satellite phone and radio communication systems for safety
• Physical Preparation: Requires high-altitude training, technical climbing, and skiing experience, and excellent physical fitness
• Permit Requirements: Climbing permit from the Nepal Government “DoT”, Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
• Best Season: Pre-monsoon (April-May) or post-monsoon (September-October)

Trip Highlights

• Summiting Annapurna I (8,091m): Embark on a journey to the summit of the world’s 10th highest peak, navigating challenging icefalls, crevasses, and steep snow-covered slopes. Annapurna is known for its unpredictable weather and avalanche risk, requiring advanced mountaineering skills and careful planning.
• High-Altitude Ski Descent: Experience the unparalleled thrill of skiing from the summit of Annapurna I. The descent covers a variety of terrain, including steep faces, narrow couloirs, and wide-open snowfields. The ski descent demands a high level of technical skiing ability, with the added challenge of thin air at extreme altitudes. This is not just a ski run; it's a test of endurance, skill, and precision.
• Strategic Acclimatization and Preparation: The expedition includes multiple acclimatization days at critical points, ensuring that climbers are well-prepared for the summit push. Camps are meticulously planned to maximize acclimatization while positioning the team for optimal routes on both the ascent and descent. Special attention is given to the preparation and adjustment of ski equipment for the unique conditions encountered at such altitudes.
• Cultural Immersion and Scenic Trekking: Before the ascent, the journey begins with a scenic trek through the lush landscapes of the Annapurna region. Participants will trek through terraced farmlands, dense rhododendron forests, and remote villages, offering a cultural immersion into the life of the local Gurung and Magar communities. The trek serves not only as a warm-up but also as a reminder of the region’s rich cultural heritage and stunning natural beauty.
• Base Camp and Beyond: The Annapurna Base Camp, nestled within the dramatic natural amphitheater of the Annapurna Sanctuary, serves as the gateway to the ascent. From here, the route ascends through increasingly challenging terrain to Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3, each strategically located to prepare for the summit and descent. The camps are set in breathtaking locations, offering panoramic views of the Annapurna massif and beyond.
• Safety and Expertise: Led by a team of experienced high-altitude guides and supported by a professional base camp crew, the expedition prioritizes safety at every stage. With a low guide-to-client ratio, each participant receives personalized attention, ensuring that they are well-supported during both the climb and the ski descent. The team is equipped with the latest in mountaineering and skiing technology, including communication devices and safety gear, to manage the inherent risks of the expedition.

NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;

01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking, and staircase climbing

02. Strength training for lower body and core

03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack-weight

04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body

Annapurna Southwest Ridge or Northwest Ridge Camps Details:

Base Camp (4,200m / 13,780ft):

• Annapurna Base Camp is located in a stunning amphitheater-like setting, surrounded by towering peaks.
• It serves as the primary acclimatization and logistical hub for the expedition.
• Facilities include tents for sleeping, dining, and medical services.

Annapurna Advanced Base Camp (4,200m/13,780.ft): The approach starts south of Annapurna and takes you through Tatopani, Lete, and Miristi Khola. Base camp is usually set up on a flat, grassy area that is sheltered from avalanches. Xtreme Climbers operate the Annapurna expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We normally operate the expedition from the normal route which is the Southwest ridge. However, we will operate the Annapurna expedition from the Southwest face and the Northwest Ridge. Xtreme Climbers Advanced B.C will be set up for almost a one month period. On an 8,000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home being away from home. Setting our camp at walking distance between meeting points of different groups and at strategic viewing positions of the Annapurna massif. Each of our clients will have their own personal tent (VE-25 North Face) which will be your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. The base camp will be already fully established before your arrival with hot beverages and snacks added to the warm welcome hospitality by Xtreme Climbers base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide. Prior to your climbing period, you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for Safe and good luck blessings from the goddess of the Himalayas during a climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition. This is one Sherpa tradition not to miss.

Camp I (5,200m / 17,060ft):

• Positioned above the glacier, Camp I is the first high-altitude camp on the route.
• The journey to Camp I involves traversing glaciers and navigating crevasses.
• This camp allows climbers to gain initial altitude for acclimatization.

Annapurna Camp I (5200m/17,060ft) 4-5 hrs: Once after the basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to camp I(5,300m/17,388.ft). The first section of the ridge rock and glacier. You will fix camp I in the middle of the glacier on a slope of 25º. This is a safe location and is protected from avalanches. This section of the climb is a bit technical and your climbing Sherpa guide will fix the rope through this section. During this section of the climbing, you will encounter mixed terrain. Some stronger climbers will skip this camp after and go right to camp II.

Camp II (5,700m / 18,700ft):

• Located at the foot of a steep snow and ice face, Camp II is a crucial acclimatization point.
• The route to Camp II includes technical ice climbing and negotiating seracs.
• Fixed ropes are used on the steeper sections for safety.

Annapurna Camp II (5,700m/18,700.ft) 4-5 hrs: Situated above the snowy terrace climbing from camp I to camp II is a moderate section of ice with a few mixed sections of climbing. Compared with other sections the terrain from Camp I and Camp II is safer and easier but you still have to climb and cross the black rock wall before heading up the glacier. Then you encounter several steep sections of blue ice at 45º, these sections are roughly 50-60, and there is also another 60m high rock wall to negotiate. This section is said to be the crux of the route. 

Camp III (6,400m / 21,000ft):

• Situated on a ridge, Camp III is exposed to high winds but provides a stunning panoramic view.
• This camp serves as an essential acclimatization stop before the final high camp.
• The route from Camp II to Camp III involves steep and exposed snow slopes.

Annapurna Camp III (6,500m/21,325.ft) 6 hrs: The distance of 800m/2,655ft. Will be a bit longer today between Camp II and Camp III Climbing Sherpas Guide will fix 80% of the route. In this first section of climbing and crossing a glacier from east to west, you will then meet a 55º wall, which is almost 450 up to 500m in length. Climbers have reported that this section is easier climbing but is still not to be taken lightly, your Sherpa will fix ropes on this section of the route. Be advised that there is exposure to cold and wind in this section. hitting this section directly by the Sun during autumn this section can be a little tricky and dangerous in autumn because the snow slope covers a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche-prone.

Camp IV (7,200m / 23,620ft):

• Known as High Camp, Camp IV is the last camp before the summit push.
• Located on a narrow ridge, it offers minimal protection from the elements.
• Climbers typically rest here briefly to prepare for the summit attempt.

Annapurna Camp IV (7,100m/23,294.ft) 3-4hrs: Climbing today feels like a short distance from Camp III to Camp IV. Continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur which will join a big couloir. Camp IV can be set between 7,100m-7,200m in a panoramic rock cave. As all climbers are aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section, you have to climb for 3-4 hours on steep snow and a big wall at 45-50º slope. This section is a little dangerous in autumn because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone. Xtreme Climbers Climbing Sherpa team will make an easy traverse to Camp IV at 7100m which allows you to have a shorter summit day.

Summit (8,091m / 26,545ft):

• The final ascent from Camp IV to the summit involves steep and technical snow and ice climbing.
• Climbers aim to reach the summit early in the morning to avoid afternoon weather deterioration.
• After summiting, climbers descend back to Camp IV or lower camps for safety.

Annapurna Summit (8,091m/26,545.ft)15-16 hrs: During the climbing period Summit is the main goal. Most of the climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00-12:00 pm. If all goes well you will reach the summit between 7:00-10:00 am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via a ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp IV from the summit and another 2 hours to get to Camp II for an overnight stay. Requires an average of 900m of fixed rope above camp IV and below the summit. This is the reason we requested almost 900 m of rope above Camp III to the summit. Most sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge and does not require fixed ropes, it is done as a free ascent. Xtreme Climbing  Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trails and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 10th highest mountain in the world.

Estimated approximate descent time:

Depending on the snow conditions and the route taken the ski descent from the summit of Annapurna I (8,091m) typically covers approximately 2,400 to 3,000. meters in vertical descent. The horizontal distance can vary but is generally around 8 to 10 kilometers from the summit to Camp 1, with the possibility of extending the descent further down to lower camps.

• From Summit to Camp 3 (approx. 7,200m): 2 to 3 hours.
• From Camp 3 to Camp 2 (approx. 6,500m): 1 to 2 hours.
• From Camp 2 to Camp 1 (approx. 5,700m): 2 to 3 hours.

NOTE: The approximate hours are decent from the summit to BC depending on conditions and the skier's ability.

The total descent time from the summit to Camp 1 could range between 6 to 9 hours, taking into account the technical difficulty, altitude, and snow conditions. If conditions allow for skiing down to lower camps, the descent could extend further, adding to the overall distance and time.

General Notes:

• The expedition requires meticulous planning, acclimatization, and preparation at each camp.
• Weather conditions and individual acclimatization rates can affect the duration of stays at each camp.
• Safety measures include setting fixed ropes, using supplemental oxygen, and having contingency plans for emergencies.
• The climb is known for its technical difficulties and objective hazards, making it one of the more dangerous 8,000-meter peaks.