Trip Overview
Mount Pumori, standing at 7,161 meters, is located in the Khumbu region of the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The name Pumori is derived from the Sherpa language that means ‘Unmarried young Daughter‘. Which is also known as Everest’s Little Daughter lies just eight kilometers west of Mount Everest. Climbers often use Mount Pumori to build confidence and gain technical skills. Before attempting to climb Everest or other 8000m peaks. In 1962 Ger...
Mount Pumori, standing at 7,161 meters, is located in the Khumbu region of the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The name Pumori is derived from the Sherpa language that means ‘Unmarried young Daughter‘. Which is also known as Everest’s Little Daughter lies just eight kilometers west of Mount Everest. Climbers often use Mount Pumori to build confidence and gain technical skills. Before attempting to climb Everest or other 8000m peaks. In 1962 Gerhard Lenser made the first successful ascent to the summit of Mount Pumori. He was a member of the German-Swiss Expedition team. Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter".Mallory also called it Clare Peak, after his daughter. Later in 1996, Czech nationals namely Leopold Sulovsky and Michalec Zeduak opened a new route south-west ridge. Which is considered even more difficult than the normal route used by Lenser. Climbing the Southwest route of Mt. Pumori includes technically difficult sections, ascending icy slopes ranging from 40-60 degrees slopes at higher camps. Xtreme Climbers climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. And a final push to the summit passing over crevices and then up over the cliff face to reach the summit top. As per the record by the government of Nepal and the Department of Tourism, the summit is recorded at the coordinates of:28°00'53''N, longitude and 86°49'41''E latitude.
Xtreme Climbers follows the standard route on the Southeast ridge, a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques. Above the base camp at 5,300m/17,388ft. We set up 2 to 3 camps. Climb through the glaciers and knife-edged ridge of the hillside for about 3-4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5,700m/18,701ft. From camp 1, we climb the face with 45-60-degree slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6,200m/20,341ft. From Camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at 6,500m/21,325ft. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. This peak is suitable for those climbers who are looking for a demanding 7000m climb. Climbing the South-West route will give you the required technical climbing.
- Climbing any mountain especially 7000m and 8000m above is tough but highly rewarding as well. So, do prepare yourself Psychologically and Physically to withstand all possible hazards that may come across your path during the mountaineering journey.
- The expedition is EXTREMELY Challenging but worth it. Before the summit push, we will have enough time at the Base Camp where our supremely talented climbing Sherpa guide will train you very well to be in the Himalayas by providing you with all technical know-how and techniques.
- The summit lies at a higher altitude and can cause altitude sickness to anyone attempting the summit push. But proper acclimatization, reserved Oxygen which will be carried or transferred already at higher camps for emergency use, and support/assistance by our high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide will help you go through to reach the summit of your dream mountain. Above the higher camps, we will always have extra bottles of oxygen in case of emergencies. This is why one must go on an expedition to any of the 6 thousand before heading to any 7000m. This will not only help you gain experience in the high altitude but also familiarize you with all the gears and equipment while handling extremely cold temperatures, gaining great crampon skills on and on the rock, snow, ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed-line. Along with tolerance at a high altitude, you need strength, endurance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.
NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;
01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking, and staircase climbing
02. Strength training for lower body and core
03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack-weight
04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body
Best Season For Pumori Expedition
The most favorable season for Climbing Mt. Pumori is April to May (Spring), as the temperature at the foot of Pumori does not exceed +16°C in these months making your trek exemplary. Depending on wind currents during the winter season, from late December to February, the temperature in Pumori drops down below -40°C. However, the winter season is more favorable than the summer season (June to August). It will have a minimal risk of ice collapses due to low temperatures and a long absence of snowfall during this period. During the monsoon period (mid-May-September), climbing Pumori is unsuitable due to snowfalls and avalanche danger. There will be a lot of snowfall around September, so avalanches may frequently occur day and night.
The other favorable time period to trek to Pumori is the autumn Season) from the latter half of November to early December. The season is marked by the stability of snow, calm wind, and moderate daytime temperature.
Pumori Climbing Difficulty
Following the classic route along the southeastern ridge, your trek to Pumori will be relatively simple, easy, and less challenging. The technical difficulty is not high, and there’s less possibility of an avalanche. The other normal route that you can take is through the southern ridge which is the 2nd most climbed after the usual route, and although there is little danger of avalanches, there are many elements of rock climbing that require skill and power. However, you shouldn’t underestimate the potential risk of high-peak climbing such as Pumori. Skills of walking on difficult Ice terrain, mastering the techniques of climbing along the railing, descending with a rappel, teamwork, physical and mental fitness, and periodic acclimatization are key to success at the summit.
Trip Facts
- Country / Location: Nepal / Khumbu Region Nepal/Tibet
- Transportation: Car, Flight, Tourist bus
- Arrival/Departure From Kathmandu (KTM)
- Highest altitude: 7,161m/23,494ft.
- First Ascent: 1962 First climbed on May 17, 1962, by Gerhard Lenser, a member of the German-Swiss expedition,
- Coordinates: 27°52'19'' N / 86°58'55'' E
Grade: Peu difficile (PD++) - Duration: 29 Days
- Accommodation: 3*** to 5***** as request
- Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing
- Best season: Spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
- Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
- Include Activity: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
- Culture: Tamang, Sherpa
- Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
- Climbing route: Southeast Ridge
- Group Size: 02-12 People per group
- Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)
Trip Highlights
- Explore the high valleys and experience the authentic Sherpa culture and tradition.
- Summit Mt Pumori 7,161m/23,494ft.
- Stunning views of Mt. Everest 8,848m, Mt. Lhotse 8,516m, Mt. Cho Oyu 8,201m, Mt. Makalu 8,481m, Nuptse 7,868m. and other surrounding high peaks.
Mount Pumori 7,161 m climbing camps details used typically during an expedition:
Base Camp
- Location: The Base Camp is set up at an altitude of around 5,300 meters, near Gorak Shep, a short distance from Everest Base Camp.
- Facilities: The base camp is equipped with tents for sleeping, a dining tent, a kitchen tent, and communication facilities such as satellite phones or radios.
- Activities: Acclimatization hikes to nearby peaks like Kala Patthar, preparation of equipment, and rest before ascending to higher camps.
Camp I
- Location: Camp I is generally established at around 5,650 meters on a rocky ridge.
- Facilities: Tents for sleeping and a small kitchen setup. Limited facilities due to the altitude and terrain.
- Activities: Climbers use Camp I for acclimatization, rest, and as a staging point for moving to higher camps.
Camp II
- Location: Camp II is typically set up at around 6,000 meters in a sheltered area on the East Face.
- Facilities: Basic camping setup with tents for sleeping and minimal kitchen facilities. Essential gear and supplies are stored here.
- Activities: Further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers ensure all gear is ready and rest to conserve energy for the final ascent.
Camp III
- Location: Camp III is established at around 6,480 meters near the Pumori Cliffs.
- Facilities: Minimal setup with just essential gear to reduce the load for the summit push.
- Activities: Final rest and preparation before the summit attempt. Climbers spend a very short time here to conserve energy.
Summit Push
- Route: The final ascent to the summit involves technical climbing, including navigating ice walls, crevasses, and mixed terrain of rock and snow. The route is challenging and requires careful planning.
- Timing: Climbers usually start the summit push early in the morning, around midnight or 1 AM, to reach the summit by early morning and descend to lower camps by afternoon.
- Descent: After reaching the summit, climbers descend back to Camp II or Camp I for rest and recovery.
Additional Notes
- Weather: Weather conditions in the Khumbu region can be highly variable and unpredictable. Expeditions must be flexible with their schedules and prepared for sudden changes in weather.
- Permits: Climbing Mount Pumori requires permits from the Department of Tourism (DoT) and other relevant authorities. Ensure all necessary permits are secured before the expedition.
- Guides and Support: Hiring experienced guides and porters is highly recommended for navigation, carrying equipment, and ensuring safety during the climb.
- Logistics: Due to the remote location, logistics such as transportation, food supplies, and emergency evacuation plans must be carefully planned and coordinated.
Expeditions to Mount Pumori are demanding and require thorough preparation, including physical training, acclimatization, and ensuring all necessary gear and provisions are ready for the high-altitude climb.
Itinerary
Cost includes
Full Board Service:
Xtreme Climbers offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 7000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service, and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full-board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing routes in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, and oxygen and prepare high-altitude food for the client. Full board also indistinguishable clients on the route while ensuring their safety and well-being. We move at the client's preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the client's safety and wellbeing being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps
Cost Includes: (Full Board Service)
- Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) on bed & breakfast.
- Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes in Nepal. *Before the expedition
- Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Pumori, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
- Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary and accommodation.
- Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the trek and expedition.
- Map: Trekking and climbing map.
- Member transportation:
- (*Standard Route Itinerary): (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, as per itinerary. - Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
- Member Luggage: Up to 60.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks.
- Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
- Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- Base Camp Tent: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North Face or Yak Mountain or Kailas tent in Base Camp.
- Base Camp equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
- Separate Dining: Separate Dining if up to 3-4 pax Team.
- Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
- Medical Checkup: Twice Medical checkup if each climber at the base camp before the summit attempt.
- Bakery and bar at Base Camp: Bakery and bar will be at Base Camp with the joining group of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition.
- Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: Oxygen cylinder will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
- Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
- High camp service: High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for members, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2), and (C3) Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic ropes during the climbing period as required.
- Rope Fixing Team: The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route In Pumori (no extra charge will be applied to members).
- SAT Phone: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
- Walkie-Talkie: Walkie –Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- Permit: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- Internet Service: Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
- Weather Forecast: Weather forecast report from the authority of Nepal during the entire expedition.
- Medical Kit Bags: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- Summit Certificate: Mt. Pumori climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Mt. Pumori successfully).
- Farewell Dinner: One Welcome and Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.
NOTE: Required extra Climbing Sherpa costs 6500.$ per person. (This amount includes his insurance and extra expenses required till B.C).
Base Camp Service:
We Xtreme Climbers provide very professional, helpful, and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress-free, and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunities.
In the Base camp, our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked, and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the Base Camp, we provide spacious expedition-quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp, we also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp, we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF handheld radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpas have extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organizations. In base camp, our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Base Camp Service includes:
- Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) on bed & breakfast.
- Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government Taxes in Nepal. *before the expedition
- Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Pumori, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
- Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
- Map: Trekking and climbing map.
- Member transportation:
- (*Standard Route Itinerary): (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, as per itinerary. - Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
- Member Luggage: Up to 60.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks.
- Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
- Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- Base Camp Tent: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North Face or Yak Mountain or Kailas tent in Base Camp.
- Base Camp equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
- Separate Dining: Separate Dining if up to 3-4 pax Team.
- Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
- Bakery and bar at Base Camp: Bakery and bar will be at Base Camp with the joining group of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition.
- Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: Oxygen cylinder will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
- Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
- SAT Phone: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
- Walkie-Talkie: Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- SAT Permit: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- Internet Service: Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
- Weather Forecast: Weather forecast report from the authority of Nepal during the entire expedition.
- Medical Kit Bags: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- Summit Certificate: Mt. Pumori climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Mt. Pumori successfully).
- Farewell Dinner: One Welcome and Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.
Cost Excludes
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 120). Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival link.
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Personal Climbing gear and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1500.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude:
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 120). Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival link.
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Climbing Sherpa Guide /Additional Staff: Climbing Sherpa Guide Or any additional staff other than those specified if the company provides BC service only.
- Personal Climbing gear, high camp meals, and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and high Camp meals and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1500.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
Related Packages
Copyright ©2024 All rights reserved | Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition - Your Adventure Partner in Nepal