Trip Overview
Annapurna I 8,091m. Normally translated as “The Goddess of Harvests”. In Sanskrit literally means “Full of Food” (10th Highest mountain on the planet) was the first mountain over 8,000.m that was successfully scaled. located in a spectacular setup, east of a great gorge cutting through the Himalayas by the Kali Gandaki River, which separates it from the Dhaulagiri massif lies only 34.km west. Annapurna I was the first 8,000m peak climbed by a French Expedition le...
Annapurna I 8,091m. Normally translated as “The Goddess of Harvests”. In Sanskrit literally means “Full of Food” (10th Highest mountain on the planet) was the first mountain over 8,000.m that was successfully scaled. located in a spectacular setup, east of a great gorge cutting through the Himalayas by the Kali Gandaki River, which separates it from the Dhaulagiri massif lies only 34.km west. Annapurna I was the first 8,000m peak climbed by a French Expedition led by Maurice Herzog, who reached the summit on 3rd.June.1950. It took 20 years for another team to succeed on the same mountain summit. The 1970 ascent of the South Face of Annapurna by Chris Bonington's team was a landmark in the history of mountaineering. This is a mountain that is among the most familiar of mountains, yet one that is very rarely climbed.
For Hindu religious followers Annapurna is "The Universal and Timeless Kitchen-Goddess, the mother who feeds and prevents starvation, a universal fear, which makes Annapurna a universal goddess, associated with the giving of food (wealth). This led her in time to be transformed into Lakshmi, (The Goddess of Wealth) with the most popular shrine located in Kashi, on the banks of river Ganga.
The Mount Annapurna expedition, led by Maurice Herzog in 1950 had come with the intention of climbing Dhaulagiri, it took them two weeks to locate Annapurna I after they changed their plans. This was an unusual way to climb a peak in the daunting Himalayas because the mountain had remained unexplored. Finding a way to the peak, they decided to climb it and pulled off a remarkable feat by summiting it on their first attempt. They climbed up the north face of the mountain and it was Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal who made it to the top on 3rd June 1950, just before the monsoon arrived. This was a historic moment in mountaineering history as until then, no human had climbed a peak over eight thousand meters in height. The first Nepali citizen to emulate this feat was Sonam Walung Sherpa on 13th October 1977.
The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, The entire massif and surrounding area is protected within the 7,629 sq km as Annapurna Conservation Area led by Project (ACAP), the first and largest conservation area in Nepal, established in 1986. including the Annapurna Circuit, so the Annapurna Expedition has additional benefits of occurring in an extremely spectacular setting, however Mt. Annapurna peaks are also known as the world's most dangerous mountains to climb. There are four Annapurna’s in the massif as well as Gangapurna and Annapurna South. The South Face of Annapurna is one of the largest and steepest faces in the world. The face is awesome in size and difficulty. The South Face is 3000 feet higher than the southwest face of Mt. Everest. The South Face of Annapurna is relatively free of the terrible avalanche hazards that plague the standard routes on the North Face of the mountain, despite the great difficulty. The South Face is a logical route to the summit of Mt. Annapurna.
- Climbing any mountain specially 8000m above is tough but highly rewarding as well. So, do prepare yourself Psychologically and Physically to withstand all possible hazards that may come across your path during the mountaineering journey.
- The expedition is EXTREMELY Challenging but worth it. Before the summit push we will have enough time at the Base Camp where our supremely talented climbing Sherpa guide will train you very well to be in the Himalayas by providing you with all technical know-how and techniques.
- The summit lies at a higher altitude and can cause altitude sickness to anyone attempting the summit push. But proper acclimatization, enough Oxygen which will be carried and reserved at higher camps for emergency use and support/assistance by our high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide will help you go through to reach the summit of your dream mountain. Above the higher camps we will always have extra bottles of oxygen in case of emergencies. This is why one must go on an expedition to any of the 7 thousand before heading to any 8000m. This will not only help you gain experience in the high altitude but also familiarize you with all the gears and equipment while handling extremely cold temperatures, gaining great crampon skills on and on the rock, snow, ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a xed-line. Along with tolerance at a high altitude, you need strength, endurance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.
NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;
01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking and staircase climbing
02. Strength training for lower body and core
03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack-weight
04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body
Trip Facts
- Country / Location: Nepal / Annapurna Region
- Starting Point / Ending Point: Baglung or Pokhara / Pokhara
- Transportation / Mode of Travel: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus / Tea House/Camping
- Climbing route / Highest Access: SouthWest face (Normal Route) and Northwest Ridge / 8,091m/26,545.ft
- International / Nepali first First Ascent: Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal, June 3, 1950 / Sonam Walung Sherpa on 13th October 1977.
- Expedition Duration / Climbing Duration: 52 Days Typically / 32 Day Typically
- Grade / Coordinates: Moderate to Extreme / 28°35'45''N 83°49'20''E
- Accommodation / Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & Pokhara and B, D, L during the trekking and Climbing
- Major Activity / Best season: Trekking/Mountaineering / Late spring and autumn
- Include site Activity: Hot shower in natural hot spring
- Culture: Gurung, Thakali, Magar
- Group Size: 02 up to 15 per group.
- Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)
Trip Highlights
Annapurna Southwest Ridge or Northwest Ridge:
Annapurna Advanced Base Camp (4,200m/13,780.ft): The approach starts south of Annapurna and takes you through Tatopani, Lete and Miristi Khola. Base camp is usually set up on a flat, grassy area that is sheltered from avalanches. Xtreme Climbers operate the Annapurna expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We normally operate the expedition from the normal route which is the Southwest ridge. However, we will operate the Annapurna expedition from the Southwest face and the Northwest Ridge. Xtreme Climbers advanced B.C will be set up for almost a one month period. On an 8,000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home being away from home. Setting our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different groups and at strategic viewing positions of the Annapurna massif. Each of our clients will have their own personal tent (VE-25 North Face) which will be your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. The base camp will be already fully established before your arrival with hot beverages and snacks added of warm welcome hospitality by Xtreme Climbers base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for Safe and good luck blessings from the goddess of himalayas during climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.. This is one Sherpa tradition not to miss.
Annapurna Camp I (5200m/17,060ft) 4-5 hrs: Once after the basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to camp I(5,300m/17,388.ft). The first section of the ridge rock and glacier. You will fix camp I at the middle of the glacier on a slope of 25º. This is a safe location and is protected from avalanches. This section of the climb is a bit technical and your climbing Sherpa guide will fix rope through this section. During this section of the climbing you will encounter mixed terrain. Some stronger climbers will skip this camp after and go right to camp II.
Annapurna Camp II (5,700m/18,700.ft) 4-5 hrs: Situated above the snowy terrace climbing from camp I to camp II is a moderate section of ice with a few mixed sections of climbing. Compared with other sections the terrain from camp I and camp II is safer and easier but you still have to climb and cross the black rock wall before heading up the glacier. Then you encounter several steep sections of blue ice at 45º, these sections are roughly 50-60, there is also another 60m high rock wall to negotiate. This section is said to be the crux of the route.
Annapurna Camp III (6,500m/21,325.ft) 6 hrs: The distance of 800m/2,655ft. Will be a bit longer today between camp II and camp III Climbing Sherpas Guide will fix 80% of the route. This first section of climbing and crossing a glacier from east to west, you will then meet a 55º wall, which is almost 450 up to 500m in length. Climbers have reported that this section is easier climbing but is still not to be taken lightly, your Sherpa will fix ropes on this section of the route. Be advised that there is exposure to cold and wind in this section. hitting this section directly by the Sun during autumn this section can be a little tricky and dangerous in autumn because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone.
Annapurna Camp IV (7,100m/23,294.ft) 3-4hrs: Climbing today feels like a short distance from camp III to camp IV. Continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur which will join a big couloir. Camp IV can be set between 7,100m-7,200m in a panoramic rock cave. As all climbers are aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3-4 hours on steep snow and a big wall at 45-50º slope. This section is a little dangerous in autumn because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone. Xtreme Climbers Climbing Sherpa team will make an easy traverse to Camp IV at 7100m which allows you to have a shorter summit day.
Annapurna Summit (8,091m/26,545.ft)15-16 hrs: During the climbing period Summit is the main goal. Most of the climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00-12:00 pm. If all goes well you will reach the summit between 7:00-10:00 am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via a ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to camp IV from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. Requires an average of 900m of fixed rope above camp IV and below the summit. This is the reason we requested almost 900 m of rope above camp III to the summit. Most sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge and does not require fixed ropes, it is done as a free ascent. Xtreme Climbing Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trails and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 10th highest mountain in the world.
Itinerary
Cost includes
- Transportation: All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM International Airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary
- Free assistance service for Cargo Clearance: Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties
- Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4-night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on a B/B basis 3*** standard.
- Hotel Accommodation in Pokhara: 1 night hotel*** accommodation in Pokhara. B/B plan
- Climbing Sherpa Guide: Highly experienced government-licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide (Everest and Annapurna Summiter as per required) during the trekking and climbing period
- Porters: Required numbers of porters during the trekking period
- Flight Transportation: Required necessary Air/Land transportation (As per itinerary) from Kathmandu-Pokhara- Late-Beni Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer, and kitchen staff
- Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to Base Camp: Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules
- Camping and Base Camp and Camps above Equipment: At (Base Camp) Required necessary Xtreme Climbers member and staff Tent’s Kitchen, storage, dining, client, and toilet tents including necessary tables, chairs, and cooking utensils, Fuel for base camp and above Base Camp Necessary Members Tents (2. member 1. Tent) as well tents for Climbing Sherpa EPI Cooking Gas and Stove, High Food, Cooking Zet Bown sets will be provided.
- Climbing Equipment: Required necessary fixed and dynamic rope, Common climbing equipment such as Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bars are required during climbing.
- Kitchen Chef and Kitchen Assistant: Highly experienced Kitchen Chef and kitchen assistant at advanced base camp
- Accommodation and Meal During Trip: Best Possible accommodation at a hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camp during the trekking period including Three meals (Breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee and seasonal fresh fruits as long as available.
- Baggage Allowance: 50. kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Duffel Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Weather Report: Daily weather report services from a Seattle, Washington-based company
- Climbing / Trekking Permits, Royalty, and Ice fall charges: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Annapurna First, TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System) Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry ACAP) fee and Ice fall charges.
- Wages, Insurance, and Equipment Allowance: Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas Guide, Cooks, Kitchen assistants, and government liaison officers.
- Medical and Emergency Heli Insurance: Medical / Accident and emergency Heli rescue insurance for all involved staff during the trekking and climbing period.
- Medical consultation services: Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at the base camp
- First aid medical kits Bags: First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
- Communication: SAT Phone / Radio Walkie Talkie Thuraya Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients at a cost of $4. USD per minute
- Heater: Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent
- Oxygen Mask and Regulator: 4 Bottles of Summit Oxygen for each member and 2 Bottles for each Climbing Sherpa will be provided with The latest model of Summit or Top-out system masks and regulators will be provided during ascent.
- Emergency Oxygen Mask and Regulator: Emergency oxygen mask and regulator will be reserved at BC and Camps above and will be provided upon request of the client (Appropriate charge will be applied).
- Solar Panel and Generator: Solar panel for light and electronics charging / A generator will be provided to back up the lighting in the base camp
- Flight ticket reconfirmation and Complete pre-departure information: Flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services including Complete pre-departure information
- Company S/C and Tax/VAT Nepalese Government Royalty: XTREME CLIMBER’S minimum service charge and government Tax/VAT levied in Nepal and Nepalese Government Royalty.
- Farewell Dinner: Farewell dinner in a tourist standard restaurant host by XTREME CLIMBER’S before departure
Full board Base Camp Service costs include:
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM International Airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary
- 4-night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on a B/B basis 3*** standard.
- 1 night hotel*** accommodation in Pokhara. B/B plan
- Highly experienced government-licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide (Everest and Annapurna Summiter as per required) during the trekking and climbing period
- Required numbers of porters during the trekking period
- Required necessary Air/Land transportation (As per itinerary) from Kathmandu-Pokhara- Late-Beni Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer, and kitchen staff
- Required necessary Xtreme Climbers Tent’s Kitchen, storage, dining, client, and toilet tents,
- Required necessary tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for base camp
- Common climbing equipment such as Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar
- Accommodation at a hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camp during the trekking period
- All camping accommodations for members and staff during trekking and climbing periods. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member
- Breakfast, lunch, and dinner with tea/coffee (3 times meals a day)
- All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period
- 50. kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules
- Daily weather report services from a Seattle, Washington-based company
- Highly experienced Kitchen Chef and kitchen assistant at advanced base camp
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
- Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee)
- Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Annapurna First
- One experienced, trained, government-licensed and 3-time summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person
- All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurance for all involved staff during the trekking and climbing period
- Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff
- Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at the base camp
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas Guide, Cooks, Kitchen assistant, and government liaison officer as per program
- First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
- Thuraya Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients at a cost of $4. USD per minute
- Appropriate high-altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required
- Required necessary fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
- Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent
- High-quality VE-25 North Face Tents for client
- Solar panel for light and electronics charging
- Required necessary tents for camps 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges
- Required necessary Sherpa Guides tents, food while climbing, and their insurance
- Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties
- EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camps one, three, and South Col for cooking food
- The generator will be provided to back-up the lighting in the base camp
- Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules
- Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information
- Flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services
- Nepalese Government Royalty
- Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a cultural show in Kathmandu before departure
Cost Excludes
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee of USD 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 100). (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Additional Staff: Any additional staff other than those specified
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1800.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude:
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee of USD 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 100). (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Climbing Sherpa Guide /Additional Staff: Climbing Sherpa Guide Or any additional staff other than those specified if the company provides BC service only.
- Personal Climbing gear, high camp meals, and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and high Camp meals and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1800.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
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