Trip Overview
Mt. Lhotse or “South Peak” in Tibetan. The fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 meters, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif. situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. The Lhotse South Face is also known as one of the largest mountain faces in the world.
...Mt. Lhotse or “South Peak” in Tibetan. The fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 meters, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif. situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. The Lhotse South Face is also known as one of the largest mountain faces in the world.
Lhotse has 3 summits, the main summit at 8,516m, Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414m and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m. Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mt. Everest and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face. It is the smallest prominence, only 610m, of all 8000m peaks. Lhotse is famous for its tremendous and dramatic south face which raises 3.2km within 2.25km horizontal distance making it the steepest face of this size in the world. The route progresses through Khumbu Icefall. Moving further, we will reach Camp I (which exists at the top of the Khumbu icefall) surrounded by crevasses. From Camp I, we will pass through the lateral moraine to the west ridge that welcomes us with a close-up view of Lhotse which is the perfect place for Camp II. Leaving Camp II, we will reach near to Lhotse Wall by crossing glacier and ice cliffs where we will set Camp III. Camp IV is located near South Col. From Camp IV, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit. The climbing route for the Lhotse follows the same route as the climb on Everest, including the aptly named Lhotse face almost all the way to Everest's Geneva Spur from where it follows a steep climb through a long couloir to the summit. It is an extremely difficult climb and rarely attempted.
- Climbing any mountain especially 8000m above is tough but highly rewarding as well. So, do prepare yourself Psychologically and Physically to withstand all possible hazards that may come across your path during the mountaineering journey.
- The expedition is EXTREMELY Challenging but worth it. Before the summit push, we will have enough time at the Base Camp where our supremely talented climbing Sherpa guide will train you very well to be in the Himalayas by providing you with all technical know-how and techniques.
- The summit lies at a higher altitude and can cause altitude sickness to anyone attempting the summit push. But proper acclimatization, enough Oxygen which will be carried and reserved at higher camps for emergency use, and support/assistance by our high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide will help you go through to reach the summit of your dream mountain. Above the higher camps, we will always have extra bottles of oxygen in case of emergencies. This is why one must go on an expedition to any of the 7 thousand before heading to any 8000m. This will not only help you gain experience in the high altitude but also familiarize you with all the gears and equipment while handling extremely cold temperatures, gaining great crampon skills on and on the rock, snow, ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed-line. Along with tolerance at a high altitude, you need strength, endurance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.
NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;
01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking and staircase climbing
02. Strength training for lower body and core
03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without
pack-weight
04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body
Trip Facts
- Destination: Nepal
- Himalayan Range: Mahalangur
- Arrival/Departure From: Nepal
- Activities: Mountaineering expedition
- Highest Elevation: 8,516 m
- Prominence: 610 m
- Technical Experience: Advance Skills/5E
- Highest Elevation: 8,516m /27,940.ft
- Co-Ordinates : Latitude: 27°57'45 Longitude: 86°56'03
- Accommodation: 5***** Hotel / Local Tea House /Tented Accommodation
- Expedition Duration:
- Best Time: Spring and Autumn
- Group Size: 02 up to 10
- Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)
Trip Highlights
- Fourth Highest Peak in the world
- One of the steepest faces in the world: Rises 3.2 km in only 2.25 km of horizontal distance
- Climbing Summits Faces: Lhotse Main (8,516 meters), Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters), and Lhotse East (8,413 meters)
- A striking peak with a tremendous south face
- First ascenders: Fritz Luchsinger, Ernst Reiss
- First Climbed: Mount Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss from Switzerland.
Mt. Lhotse's "South Peak" at (8,516 m / 27,940 feet) Climbing includes several key points:
- Camp Location: The summit camp is typically set on the South Col, which is a high pass between Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest. It's a crucial point for climbers attempting both peaks.
- Altitude: The South Col sits at approximately 7,906 meters (25,938 feet), which serves as the final camp before the summit push to Lhotse's South Peak.
- Climbing Route: From the South Col, climbers ascend the steep and technical Lhotse Face, navigating through snow and ice to reach the summit.
- Challenges: Climbers face extreme altitude, harsh weather conditions, and technical climbing challenges, including negotiating the Lhotse Couloir and the final summit pyramid.
- Expedition Duration: A typical expedition to Lhotse's South Peak can take several weeks, including acclimatization periods at lower camps before attempting the final ascent.
- Equipment and Supplies: At the South Col camp, climbers typically have tents, oxygen supplies, food, and other essential equipment stored. This camp serves as a crucial base for the summit attempt and is often shared with expeditions attempting Mt. Everest.
- Weather Conditions: Weather at this altitude can be extremely harsh and unpredictable, with high winds, low temperatures, and the potential for sudden storms. Climbers must be prepared for these conditions and have contingency plans in place.
- Logistics: Expeditions to Lhotse South Peak often share logistics and camps with Everest expeditions due to their proximity and the shared route up to the South Col.
- Safety Considerations: Due to the extreme altitude and challenging conditions, climbers must be well-prepared with proper equipment, experience, and support from experienced guides and Sherpas.
Lhotse South Col Route Camps:
Khumbu Icefall: The most difficult part of climbing Lhotse. It is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. The route is not that technically challenging and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger once past the Khumbu icefall. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. At the beginning of the climbing period, Icefall Doctors and Xtreme Climbers Climbing Sherpas Guides set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu icefall possible, efficient, and relatively safe especially early morning before sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu icefall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.
Base Camp: (5,200m/17,060ft.): Located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters above sea level surrounded by Pumori, Lola, and Nuptse where you will spend up to 40-45 days. Conditions in the base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts.
Camp 1: (5900m/19,357ft.): Technical and the most difficult section of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. During the climbing period, we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp 1 for acclimation. The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs, and avalanches off Everest's west shoulder. Our plan calls for us to move up and down directly from camp 2 for safety once you have proper acclimation.
Camp 2: (6400m/20,998 ft.): Camp 2, Located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of West Ridge Safe and sheltered with tremendous views of Lhotse. This is the station where we will spend most time after base camp. All the companies set up their main climbing camp for the duration of the climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with necessary kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt.
Camp III: (7100m/23,294 ft.): The effects of high altitude and not yet using supplemental oxygen almost all climbers are feeling difficulty climbing the Lhotse Face to camp 3. Lhotse Face is steep and hard Ice, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 35 to 45 degrees. It is a long climbing distance to Camp 3 which is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at Camp III for acclimatization and the summit push.
Camp IV: (79000m/25,918ft.): Camp 4 is the last camp, it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. A flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse on the South. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4, The rocky sections called “The Yellow Band” a layer of marble, phyllite, and semi-ship rock, and the “Geneva Spur”, an anvil-shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set up with fixed ropes.
Summit: (8516m/27, 940ft.): The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. The last section of the climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 takes 12-15 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face rises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80-degree bulge. Climbers (Sherpa Climbing Guide/Foreigners) Both need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pull themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called “The Yellow Band” and “The Geneva Spur” interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face, before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.
Itinerary
Route Map
Cost includes
- Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) on bed & breakfast.
- Welcome Dinner: One Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff.
- Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government Taxes in Nepal. *before the expedition
- Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Lhotse, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
- Ice Fall Charge: Khumbu Icefall Climbing charge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
- Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
- Map: Trekking and climbing map.
- Member transportation:
- (*Standard Route Itinerary): (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and while returning Lukla - Kathmandu, as per itinerary. - Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
- Member Luggage: Up to 60.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks.
- Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
- Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- Base Camp Tent: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North Face or Yak Mountain or Kailas tent in Base Camp.
- Base Camp equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Duffel Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
- Separate Dining if up to 2-3 pax Team.
- Logistics of Sherpas from and to Kathmandu till Basecamp.
- Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, laptop and other electronic devices.
- Medical Checkup: Twice Medical checkup if each climber at the base camp before the summit attempt.
- Bakery and bar at Base Camp: Bakery and bar will be at Base Camp with the joining group of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition.
- Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: 4 oxygen bottles (4 liters.) for each member and 3 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa.
- Oxygen Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators for each member and high-altitude Sherpa.
- Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator: Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
- High camp service: High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for members, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3), and (C4). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic ropes during the climbing period as required.
- Rope Fixing Team: The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route In Everest (no extra charge will be applied to members).
- SAT Phone: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
- Walkie-Talkie: Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- Permit: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
- Internet Service: Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
- Weather Forecast: Weather forecast report from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) during the entire expedition.
- Medical Kit Bags: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- Summit Certificate: Mt. Everest climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Mt. Everest successfully).
NOTE: Required extra Climbing Sherpa costs USD 7500. per person. (This amount includes his insurance and extra expenses required till B.C).
Base Camp Service: We Xtreme Climbers provide very professional, helpful, and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress-free, and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunities.
In the Base camp, our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked, and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the Base Camp, we provide spacious expedition-quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp, we also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities, and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp, we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries, and UHF/VHF handheld radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpas have extensive experience on multiple Everest/Lhotse climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organizations. In base camp our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Base Camp Service includes:
- Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both Domestic and International flight as per itinerary.
- 4 Nights 5*****Hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Experienced and government-licensed high-altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- Schedule Flight Tickets for the Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer, and kitchen staff.
- All trekking and mountaineering equipment like, kitchen tent, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and Required necessary Cooking utensils Cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp
- 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea/ coffee) in available tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking
- 3 fresh meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners) will be served at base camp, and camp two.
- All food and fuel for Base Camp during the expedition for both members and crews.
- Per person 60.kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carried by porter or Yak to climb Mt. Lhotse.
- Trekking Permit (Everest National Park entry fee)
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Lhotse (8,516m).
- Nepalese Government Royalty and fees.
- Trekking and Climbing map.
- All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staff in trekking and expedition.
- Equipment allowances and wages for Sherpa Guide, cooks, kitchen boys.
- Equipment allowances and wages for Government Liaison Officers.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
- Satellite phone carried by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
- Each expedition member will have an individual VE-25 North Face tent available in the ABC.
- Solar panel for light and battery charger.
- Ice fall charges by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
- High altitude climbing Sherpa guide, cook and staff Helicopter rescue insurance.
- Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
- Generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
- Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp and back to Lukla)
- Visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Complete pre-departure information
- Flight ticket reconfirmation
- Our service charge and Government Taxes are levied in Nepal.
- Lhotse Summit Certificate after summiting successfully.
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
Cost Excludes
- Airfare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee $60 USD per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days is $120
- Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- Extra night in Kathmandu: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) then the scheduled itinerary.
- Insurance: Travel and high-altitude insurance, accident, Helicopter medical & emergency evacuation. *Mandatory
- Rescue Evacuation: Medical and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs).
- Personal Expenses: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will soft drinks for members at base camp).
- Personal Equipment: Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Toiletries: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
- Filming: Special Filming, Camera and Drone permit fee.
- Internet Service: Not included during the trek.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa. Minimum USD $ 2000.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
- Tips: Calculate some tips for Basecamp staffs.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, that are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Base Camp service cost excludes:
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee of USD 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 100). (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Climbing Sherpa Guide /Additional Staff: Climbing Sherpa Guide Or any additional staff other than those specified if the company provides BC service only.
- Personal Climbing gear, high camp meals, and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and high Camp meals and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 2000.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
Fixed Dates
| Date | Status | Group Size | Action |
|
41 Days
Start - 2025-04-12
End -2025-05-23
|
Booking Open | 10 PAX |
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