Mt. Baruntse (7129m) Climbing Ski Expedition - Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition

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Overview

Trip Facts

Trip Highlights

Itinerary

Cost Includes

Cost Excludes

Trip Overview

Country Nepal

Peak Name Mt. Baruntse

Max. Elevation 7,129 m

Duration 27 Days

Route Southeast Ridge

Range Makalu, Mera, Kanchanjungha

Difficulty Hard

Best Season Spring / Autumn

Accommodation Hotel + Lodge + Tent

Group Size 2 - 10 PAX

Mount Baruntse, standing at an imposing 7,129 meters (23,389 feet), is one of the most prominent peaks in the Everest region of Nepal. Nestled between the iconic Mount Everest and Mount Makalu, Baruntse offers a formidable challenge to mountaineers and skiers alike, renowned for its steep, technical climbing routes and breathtaking panoramas. This peak’s remote location makes it an ideal choice for those seeking a less-traveled path in the Himalayas, providing an isolated and pristine environment that enhances the adventure's allure.

Baruntse first captured the world’s attention when a New Zealand expedition, led by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow, successfully summited the peak on May 30, 1954, via the Southeast Ridge. Since then, this route has become the classic path to the summit, known for its demanding sections, including steep ice slopes of up to 50 degrees and a significant ice cliff that poses a risk of avalanches. The Southeast Ridge is not just challenging but also aesthetically beautiful, offering climbers a direct and rewarding path to the summit.

Key Expedition Features:

A Journey into the Himalayas: The Mt. Baruntse Ski Expedition is far more than a simple climb; it is an immersive journey into the heart of one of the world's most majestic mountain ranges. The combination of high-altitude mountaineering and technical skiing makes this a unique adventure that challenges both physical and mental limits.
High-Altitude Climbing and Skiing: Participants will ascend the Southeast Ridge, a route that requires technical proficiency and resilience, followed by a thrilling ski descent from the summit. This descent is one of the most extraordinary aspects of the expedition, as it involves navigating steep, glaciated terrain, making it an ultimate test for experienced skiers.
Historical and Strategic Significance: Baruntse’s location, between Everest and Makalu, offers not just strategic positioning but also some of the most spectacular views in the Himalayas. The peak's historical significance, with its first ascent dating back to 1954, adds to the richness of the experience.
Remote and Isolated Wilderness: Unlike more popular peaks like Everest or Ama Dablam, Baruntse is set in a more secluded part of the Khumbu region, offering a true wilderness experience. The trek to Baruntse Base Camp passes through remote valleys, traditional Sherpa villages, and untouched alpine landscapes, making the journey as rewarding as the summit itself.

Logistics and Challenges:

Duration: The expedition typically spans nearly a month, allowing ample time for acclimatization, weather contingencies, and the demands of high-altitude travel.
Climbing Route: The Southeast Ridge is the primary route, featuring a mix of steep snow and ice, with sections that require technical climbing skills. The route’s directness, combined with its technical difficulty, makes it one of the most coveted climbs in the region.
Technical Skiing: After summiting, the descent on skis is a highlight, though it is also fraught with challenges, including steep inclines and variable snow conditions. This requires not just expert skiing ability but also careful planning and execution.
Environmental and Safety Considerations: The risks of altitude sickness, harsh weather, and avalanches are significant on Baruntse. Therefore, the expedition is planned meticulously to ensure safety, with a focus on proper acclimatization, monitoring weather conditions, and adhering to strict environmental guidelines to minimize impact.

Cultural and Natural Experience:

Sherpa Culture: The expedition offers a deep dive into the Sherpa culture, with interactions in villages and monasteries along the trekking route. This cultural immersion is an integral part of the experience, offering insights into the lives and spiritual practices of the people who call these mountains home.
Unparalleled Views: The panoramic views from Baruntse’s summit include some of the highest peaks in the world, such as Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. These views, combined with the isolation of the region, create a sense of awe and fulfillment that few other expeditions can match.

Climbing any mountain especially 7000m and 8000m above is tough but highly rewarding as well. So, do prepare yourself Psychologically and Physically to withstand all possible hazards that may come across your path during the mountaineering journey.
The expedition is EXTREMELY Challenging but worth it. Before the summit push, we will have enough time at the Base Camp where our supremely talented climbing Sherpa guide will train you very well to be in the Himalayas by providing you with all technical know-how and techniques.
The summit lies at a higher altitude and can cause altitude sickness to anyone attempting the summit push. But proper acclimatization, reserved Oxygen which will be carried or transferred already at higher camps for emergency use, and support/assistance by our high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide will help you go through to reach the summit of your dream mountain. Above the higher camps, we will always have extra bottles of oxygen in case of emergencies. This is why one must go on an expedition to any of the 6 thousand before heading to any 7000m. This will not only help you gain experience in the high altitude but also familiarize you with all the gears and equipment while handling extremely cold temperatures, gaining great crampon skills on and on the rock, snow, ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed-line. Along with tolerance at a high altitude, you need strength, endurance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.

NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;

01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking, and staircase climbing

02. Strength training for lower body and core

03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack-weight

04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body

Trip Facts

Country: Nepal
Arrival/Departure From Kathmandu (KTM)
Climbing route / Highest altitude: Southeast Ridge / 7129m (23,389ft)
First Ascent: Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow, May 30, 1954 by New Zealand expedition
Location / Coordinates: Khumbu Region/Barun / 27°52'19'' N / 86°58'55'' E
Grade: Peu difficile (PD++)
Himalayan Range: Makalu, Mera, Kanchanjungha
Duration / Accommodation: 27 Days / 3*** to 5***** as request
Transportation / Meals: Car, Flight, Tourist Bus / B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity / Culture: Sightseeing in Kathmandu / Tamang, Sherpa
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Best season: Spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)

Trip Highlights

Base Camp (5,400 meters / 17,716 feet):

Location: The Base Camp is typically set up at an altitude of around 5,250 meters, near the Barun Glacier.
Facilities: Equipped with tents for sleeping, a dining tent, a kitchen tent, and communication facilities such as satellite phones or radios.
Activities: Acclimatization hikes around the base camp area, preparation of climbing equipment, and rest before ascending to higher camps.

Camp 1 (6,135 meters / 20,128 feet):

Location: Camp I is generally established at around 5,700 meters on a flat section of the glacier.
Facilities: Tents for sleeping and a small kitchen setup. Facilities are basic due to the altitude.
Activities: Climbers use Camp I for acclimatization and as a staging point for moving to higher camps. Rest and preparation for the climb to Camp II.

Camp 2 (6,420 meters / 21,060 feet):

Location: Camp II is typically set up at around 6,400 meters on the Southeast Ridge.
Facilities: Basic camping setup with tents for sleeping and minimal kitchen facilities. Essential gear and supplies are stored here.
Activities: Further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers ensure all gear is ready and rest to conserve energy for the final ascent.

Camp 3 (optional, around 6,800 meters / 22,310 feet):

Location: Some expeditions establish this camp if conditions require an additional stop.
Facilities: Minimal, typically just tents.
Activities: Rest and preparation for the summit attempt.

Summit Push

Route: The final ascent to the summit involves navigating steep snow and ice slopes, including a prominent ice wall that can reach 50 degrees in steepness. Fixed ropes are typically used on the steeper sections for safety.
Timing: Climbers usually start the summit push early in the morning, around midnight or 1 AM, to reach the summit by early morning and descend to lower camps by afternoon.
Descent: After reaching the summit, climbers descend back to Camp II or Camp I for rest and recovery.

Additional Notes

Weather: Weather conditions in the Everest region can be highly variable and unpredictable. Expeditions must be flexible with their schedules and prepared for sudden changes in weather.
Permits: Climbing Mount Baruntse requires permits from the Department of Tourism (DoT) and other relevant authorities. Ensure all necessary permits are secured before the expedition.
Guides and Support: Hiring experienced guides and porters is highly recommended for navigation, carrying equipment, and ensuring safety during the climb.
Logistics: Due to the remote location, logistics such as transportation, food supplies, and emergency evacuation plans must be carefully planned and coordinated.

Preparation and Safety

Training: Climbers should undergo thorough physical training and have experience with high-altitude climbing and technical routes.
Acclimatization: Proper acclimatization is crucial to avoid altitude sickness. Climbers should follow a carefully planned acclimatization schedule.
Gear: Essential gear includes high-altitude clothing, climbing equipment (crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes), camping gear, and sufficient food and water supplies.
Health and Safety: Climbers should have a comprehensive medical kit and knowledge of first aid. Awareness of symptoms of altitude sickness and immediate action in case of emergencies are vital.

Expeditions to Mount Baruntse require meticulous preparation, physical fitness, and careful planning to ensure a successful and safe climb.

Itinerary

Your adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Xtreme Climbers will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal. Included meals: Breakfast NOTE: Kathmandu Sightseeing Can be arranged at an additional cost: Sightseeing around Kathmandu's historical places and monuments will be led by a professional City tour guide to some of the most historical and spiritual attractions in Kathmandu. Some of these landmarks are considered World Heritage Sites; including the historic Bhaktapur Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath, the famous 'Monkey Temple' (Swayambhunath), and the Buddhist shrine (Boudhanath) which is one of the largest Stupas in the world.

Cost includes

Xtreme Climbers offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 7000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service, and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full-board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb. Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing routes in collaboration with other climbing teams participating in the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, and oxygen and prepare high-altitude food for the client. Full board also indistinguishable clients on the route while ensuring their safety and well-being. We move at the client's preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the client's safety and well-being being the overriding priority. High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel, and food for high camps

Cost Includes: (Full Board Service)

Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 3 nights hotel in Kathmandu (3-star category) on bed & breakfast.
Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government Taxes in Nepal. *before the expedition
Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb and Ski Mt. Baruntse, Makalu Barun National Park permit, Local VDC, and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
Map: Trekking and climbing map.
Member transportation:
- (*Standard Route Itinerary): (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
Member Luggage: Up to 60.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks. NOTE: luggage more than 60. kg p/p will be charged additional as well as required extra porter.
Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
Base Camp Tent (fixed Tent Camp): Box Tent at Baruntse Base Camp
North Face Dome Tent for Camp 1 Camp 2 Kitchen Tent and Frame Dining TentToilet Tent and Shower Tent
Luxury for Members and Staff At Base Camp: Pillow and Luxury Foam Mattress per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears. Table, Chair, Carpet, Green Grass, and Heater in Dining Solar Panel for Light in every tent and Battery Charge Hot washing water as per required Warm Hot Bag for member
XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
Separate Dining: Separate Dining if up to 4-5 pax Team.
Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
Bakery and bar at Base Camp: Bakery and bar will be at Base Camp with the joining group of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition. If the number of climbers is above 8. pax.
Oxygen Bottle (O2) and Mask & Regulator: Summit Oxygen cylinder: Oxygen cylinder with 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
High camp service: High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, EPI Gas Stove, JetBoil, & Kofel Setcooking pot, High food for members, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2), and (C3) Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic ropes during the climbing period as required.
Rope Fixing Team (Group Fixing Gear for Climbing): The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route In Baruntse (no extra charge will be applied to members). Korean Fix Rope / Dynamic and Static Rope, Carabiner, Ice Crew, and Snow Bar
Equipment for Puja (Prayer Ceremony) at Base Camp: Khata, Lungdar, Kungbu, Ting, Dalda, Dhup, etc for the Puja (Prayer ceremony) before ascent for the safe passes through the mountain and back.
SAT Phone: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
Walkie-Talkie: Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
Permit: Satellite Phone / Walkie-Talkie permit for all members and staff.
Weather Forecast: Weather forecast report from the authority of Nepal during the entire expedition.
Gamow Bag and Ski Stretcher: Gamow Bag and Ski Stretcher just in case of any emergency
Medical Kit Bags: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
Summit Certificate: Mt. Baruntse climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing Mt. Baruntse successfully).
Farewell Dinner: One Welcome and Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.

NOTE: Required extra Climbing Sherpa costs USD 5500. per person. (This amount includes his wages, insurance, equipment, and extra expenses required till B.C).

Cost Excludes

Airfare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee of USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days is USD 120) Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival link.
Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
Extra night in Kathmandu: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) then the scheduled itinerary.
Insurance: Travel and high-altitude insurance, accident, Helicopter medical & emergency evacuation. *Mandatory
Rescue Evacuation: Medical and emergency rescue evacuation costs if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization costs).
Personal Expenses: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
Personal Equipment: Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
Toiletries: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
Filming: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
Internet Service: Not included during the trek.
Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa. Minimum USD. 1200.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
Tips: Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff.
Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.