Gyachung Kang 7952m Climbing Expedition - Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition

Close Filter

Overview

Trip Facts

Trip Highlights

Itinerary

Cost Includes

Cost Excludes

Trip Overview

Country Nepal

Peak Name Mt. Gyachung Kang

Max. Elevation 7,952 m

Duration 38 Days

Co-ordinate 28°05′53″N 86°44′32″E

Range Mahalangur Himal

Difficulty Hard

Best Season Spring and autumn

Accommodation Hotel + Lodge + Tent

Group Size 2 - 10 PAX

Gyachung Kang, situated on the border between Nepal and Tibet, stands at an elevation of 7,952 meters (26,089 feet), making it the 15th-highest peak in the world. This formidable mountain offers an extraordinary adventure for seasoned mountaineers, distinct from its more famous neighbors, Everest and Cho Oyu. Its remote location and significant altitude provide a unique climbing experience,...

The climb is renowned for its challenging conditions due to high altitude and harsh weather, often serving as a training ground for higher peaks like Mount Everest. The route involves setting up a base camp at approximately 5,300 meters (17,388 feet), establishing higher camps, and navigating steep snow and ice slopes with crevasses. Climbers must be in excellent physical condition, possess extensive mountaineering experience, and be equipped with a qualified guide and proper gear to ensure a safe and successful expedition.

The journey to Gyachung Kang’s summit is a true test of physical endurance, taking climbers through some of the Himalayan region’s most captivating and diverse terrains. This expedition requires meticulous planning due to the complex mountainous environment and extreme weather conditions. It is not just about reaching the summit; it is about experiencing the raw, untouched beauty of the Himalayas and achieving a profound sense of accomplishment. The XTREME CLIMBER’S Gyachung Kang expedition offers stunning views and an unparalleled opportunity to push one’s limits in a high-altitude environment.

NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;

01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking, and staircase climbing

02. Strength training: Strength training for lower body and core

03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack-weight

04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body

Trip Facts

Country / Arrival/Departure From: Nepal / Kathmandu (KTM)
Climbing route / Highest altitude: 7,952 m (26,089 ft) Ranked 15th Highest
First Ascent / Route: April 10, 1964, by Y. Kato, K. Sakaizawa, Pasang Phutar, K. Machida and K. Yasuhisa. The North Face was first climbed in 1999 by a Slovene expedition / Southern and northern
Location / Coordinates: Nepal / China / 28°05′53″N 86°44′32″E
Climbing Grade: D (Difficult) on the French Alpine Grade scale
Himalayan Range: Mahalangur Himal
Duration / Accommodation: 38 (KTM-MOUNTAIN-KTM) Days / 3*** to 5***** as request
Transportation / Meals: Car, Flight, Tourist Bus / B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing
Caravan route: Lukla-Namche-Khumjung-Gokyo-BC
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Culture: Tamang, Sherpa
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Best season: Spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)

Trip Highlights

Historical First Summit: Celebrate the successful first ascent by K. Sakaizawa and Y. Kato in 1964.
Challenging Ascent: Experience the thrill of scaling one of the Himalayas' lesser-known, high-altitude peaks.
Stunning Summit Views: Enjoy breathtaking panoramic vistas of the Himalayan range from the summit.
Cultural Immersion: Engage with the rich culture and traditions of the Sherpa communities.
Diverse Landscapes: Trek through varied environments, including rocky terrains, snowy hills, and glaciers.
Nature and Wildlife: Discover unique Himalayan flora and fauna and learn about local conservation efforts.
Personal Achievement: Gain a profound sense of pride and personal growth from conquering one of the Himalayas' most challenging climbs.
Border Location: Located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, the mountain stands at an impressive 7,952 meters (26,089 feet), making it the 22nd-highest peak in the world.
Training Ground: Often used by climbers preparing for higher peaks like Mount Everest, Gyachung Kang presents a rigorous and rewarding challenge.
Expedition Route: The usual route involves setting up a base camp at around 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) and establishing several higher camps, culminating in a final ascent over steep snow and ice slopes and crossing crevasses.
Essential Preparation: Due to the climb's difficulty, climbers need to be in excellent physical shape, have extensive mountaineering experience, and be equipped with the proper gear and an experienced guide.

Gyachung Kang 7952m Expedition Camp Details

Base Camp (5,350m)

Location: The base camp is set up at 5,350 meters, in a safe and accessible spot with stunning views of Gyachung Kang and the surrounding peaks.

Purpose: The base camp serves as the main hub for preparation, rest, and acclimatization.

Facilities:

Tents: Comfortable sleeping tents for climbers.
Dining Tent: A communal tent for meals and socializing.
Kitchen Tent: Where meals are prepared by the expedition's cook staff.
Toilet Tent: For sanitation needs.
Medical Tent: Equipped with basic first aid supplies and emergency medical equipment.

Camp I (6,100m)

Location: Camp I is situated at 6,100 meters, on a stable section of the mountain, usually at the foot of the major climb.

Purpose: This camp serves as the first high-altitude camp for further acclimatization and preparation for higher ascents.

Facilities:

Tents: Sleeping tents are set up for rest and overnight stays.
Essential Gear Storage: Necessary climbing equipment and supplies are stored here.
Toilet Facilities: Basic toilet arrangements.

Camp II (6,750m)

Location: Positioned at 6,750 meters, Camp II is often located in a more exposed area, providing a strategic point for further acclimatization.

Purpose: This camp is used for resting, acclimatizing, and staging further climbs.

Facilities:

Tents: Fewer tents due to the higher altitude; space for essential rest and sleep.
Essential Gear Storage: Storage of critical gear and supplies for the next stage of the climb.
Toilet Facilities: Minimal and basic, focused on environmental preservation.

Camp III (7,200m)

Location: Camp III is established at 7,200 meters, typically on a narrow ridge or a relatively flat section.

Purpose: It acts as the final acclimatization point and staging area before the summit push.

Facilities:

Tents: Minimalistic setup with just a few tents for climbers.
Essential Gear Storage: Only the most crucial supplies are stored here.
Toilet Facilities: Very basic, focused on reducing environmental impact.

Summit Push (7,952m)

Details: The summit push from Camp III to the peak at 7,952 meters involves a pre-dawn start to take advantage of the stable weather conditions. This segment is the most challenging, requiring precise planning and execution.

Key Aspects:

Early Start: Climbers begin around midnight or early morning to reach the summit before afternoon weather changes.
Route Planning: The route involves crossing crevasses, climbing steep ice faces, and navigating exposed ridges.
Safety Measures: Constant monitoring of weather and physical conditions is crucial. Communication with the base camp and among climbers is maintained throughout the ascent.

Summit Success:

Time Management: Climbers aim to reach the summit by early morning and descend before afternoon clouds roll in.
Celebration and Reflection: Reaching the summit involves brief celebrations and capturing the moment before focusing on the descent to ensure safety.

Descending Strategy:

Return to Camps: Climbers descend to lower camps for rest and recovery.
Cleanup: Ensuring all equipment is collected and no trace is left behind.
Return to Base Camp: Final descent to base camp for regrouping and preparation for departure.

Each camp is critical for acclimatization, rest, and logistical support, contributing to the overall success and safety of the Gyachung Kang expedition.

Technical Difficulty:

Gyachung Kang (7,952 meters / 26,089 feet) is considered a challenging and technical climb, typically rated as a D (Difficult) on the French Alpine Grade scale. This rating indicates that climbers will encounter steep snow and ice slopes, mixed terrain, and possibly some rock climbing sections.

Technical Snow and Ice Climbing: Climbers must navigate steep snow and ice slopes, requiring proficiency in using ice axes and crampons.
Crevasse Crossings: The route includes crossing several crevasses, demanding careful route-finding and crevasse rescue skills.
High Altitude: The significant altitude adds complexity due to the reduced oxygen levels, requiring effective acclimatization strategies.
Mixed Terrain: The climb may include sections of mixed rock and ice, demanding advanced climbing techniques.

Climbing Gyachung Kang requires excellent physical conditioning, extensive mountaineering experience, and familiarity with high-altitude climbing.

Itinerary

Arrival in Kathmandu [1300 m/4264 ft] Arrive at any time, Xtreme Climbers vehicle and represent we'll pick you up from Tribhuvan International Airport and take you to the hotel. Your included activities consist of refreshments, an introduction to your guide, as well as an introduction on The Trek.

Your adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. A representative from Xtreme Climbers will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.

Cost includes

Full Board Service:

Xtreme Climbers offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 7000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service, and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full-board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.

Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing routes in collaboration with other climbing teams participating in the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, and oxygen and prepare high-altitude food for the client. Full board also indistinguishable clients on the route while ensuring their safety and well-being. We move at the client's preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the client's safety and wellbeing being the overriding priority.

High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel, and food for high camps

Cost Includes: (Full Board Service)

Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) on bed & breakfast.
Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government Taxes in Nepal. *Before the expedition
Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Gyachung Kang, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
Map: Trekking and climbing map.
Member transportation:
- (*Standard Route Itinerary): (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
Member Luggage: Up to 60.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks.
Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
Base Camp Tent: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North Face or Yak Mountain or Kailas tent in Base Camp.
Base Camp equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
Separate Dining: Separate Dining if up to 3-4 pax Team.
Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
Medical Checkup: Twice Medical checkup if each climber at the base camp before the summit attempt.
Bakery and bar at Base Camp: Bakery and bar will be at Base Camp with the joining group of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition.
Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: Oxygen cylinder will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
High camp service: High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for members, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2), and (C3) Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic ropes during the climbing period as required.
Rope Fixing Team: The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route In Pumori (no extra charge will be applied to members).
SAT Phone: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
Walkie-Talkie: Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
Permit: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
Internet Service: Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
Weather Forecast: Weather forecast report from the authority of Nepal during the entire expedition.
Medical Kit Bags: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
Summit Certificate: Mt. Gyachung Kang climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing successfully).
Farewell Dinner: One Welcome and Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.

NOTE: Required extra Climbing Sherpa costs 5500.$ per person. (This amount includes his insurance and extra expenses required till B.C).

Base Camp Service:

We Xtreme Climbers provide very professional, helpful, and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress-free, and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunities.

In the Base camp, our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked, and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the Base Camp, we provide spacious expedition-quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp, we also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities portable shower facilities, and tent accommodation for our staff.

In base camp, we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries, and UHF/VHF handheld radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.

Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpas have extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organizations. In base camp, our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.

Base Camp Service includes:

Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) on bed & breakfast.
Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government Taxes in Nepal. *before the expedition
Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Gyachung Kang, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
Map: Trekking and climbing map.
Member transportation:
- (*Standard Route Itinerary): (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition, expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
Member Luggage: Up to 60.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks.
Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
Base Camp Tent: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North Face Yak Mountain or Kailas tent in Base Camp.
Base Camp equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
Separate Dining: Separate Dining if up to 3-4 pax Team.
Solar/Generator/Light: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
Bakery and bar at Base Camp: Bakery and bar will be at Base Camp with the joining group of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expedition.
Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: Oxygen cylinder will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators will be reserved at BC and Camp above for emergency use with appropriate additional cost.
SAT Phone: Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
Walkie-Talkie: Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
SAT Permit: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
Internet Service: Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
Weather Forecast: Weather forecast report from the authority of Nepal during the entire expedition.
Medical Kit Bags: Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
Summit Certificate: Mt. Gyachung Kang climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after climbing successfully).
Farewell Dinner: One Welcome and Farewell Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.

Cost Excludes

Airfare: Airfare of international flights
Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 120). Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival link.
Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
Personal Climbing gear and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1800.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section

Base Camp Service Cost Exclude:

Airfare: Airfare of international flights
Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 120). Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival link.
Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
Climbing Sherpa Guide /Additional Staff: Climbing Sherpa Guide Or any additional staff other than those specified if the company provides BC service only.
Personal Climbing gear, high camp meals, and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and high Camp meals and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1800.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section