Trip Overview
Tilicho Peak, standing at (7134m/23,406ft) meters, is one of the more attractive 7000m expeditions located in the Annapurna region of Nepal. It is one of the prominent peaks in the Himalayas and offers a challenging climb for mountaineers. Tilicho Peak was first climbed in 1978 by Mr. Emanuel Schmutz from a French expedition team. The North West shoulder route is the normal climbing route fo...
Tilicho Peak, standing at (7134m/23,406ft) meters, is one of the more attractive 7000m expeditions located in the Annapurna region of Nepal. It is one of the prominent peaks in the Himalayas and offers a challenging climb for mountaineers. Tilicho Peak was first climbed in 1978 by Mr. Emanuel Schmutz from a French expedition team. The North West shoulder route is the normal climbing route for Tilicho Peak. Tilicho Peak is the highest point of the Great Barrier which links Khangsar Kang (7458m) and Nilgiri North (7061m) together. The peak was discovered in 1950 by a team led by Maurice Herzog who was attempting to find Annapurna I. The highest glacier lake Tilicho Lake is formed by the melting ice of Tilicho Peak.
Mount Tilicho Peak is the highest point of the Great Barrier which links Khangsar Kang (7,458m.) and Nilgiri North (7,061m.) together, Tilicho Peak is towers at the height of 7,134m. Mountaineers rate this as a technical climb, and not so easy. There are two ways to reach up to Base Camp. The Tilicho Peak expedition starts with a drive to Khudi followed by several days of trekking to the Tilicho Base Camp via Manang and Khansar Village as well another way is a short mountain flight from Pokhara brought to the dry and dusty hill town of Jomsom as well as start from Beni Bazaar to Jomsom. From here we proceed east and north to cross the high and very difficult Mesokanto Pass at an altitude of 5300m. At the top of the pass, we managed to locate some marine fossils (shells) which testify to the fact that the Himalayas was once beneath the sea. We chose the first idea as this allows enough time for acclimatization and less difficulty in taking all the logistics. The views on the routes are breathtaking; anything that can surpass your imagination. What you see is Tilicho Peak and the azure and peaceful Tilicho Lake below. It is a glacial lake and unfriendly to marine life. People say they often find marine fossils (shells) that probably support the fact that the Himalayas were once beneath the sea.
Xtreme Climbers set up the base camp near the lake and some days will be rested celebrating the Puja by a Buddhist priest. Tilicho stands as a daunting task above the camp which is on a moraine. From the base camp (around 4400m.) We will set out for our final goal – Tilicho 7,134m. Tilicho (7,135m.) as seen from near the Base Camp.
- Climbing any mountain especially 7000m and 8000m above is tough but highly rewarding as well. So, do prepare yourself Psychologically and Physically to withstand all possible hazards that may come across your path during the mountaineering journey.
- The expedition is EXTREMELY Challenging but worth it. Before the summit push, we will have enough time at the Base Camp where our supremely talented climbing Sherpa guide will train you very well to be in the Himalayas by providing you with all technical know-how and techniques.
- The summit lies at a higher altitude and can cause altitude sickness to anyone attempting the summit push. But proper acclimatization, reserved Oxygen which will be carried or transferred already at higher camps for emergency use, and support/assistance by our high altitude climbing Sherpa Guide will help you go through to reach the summit of your dream mountain. Above the higher camps, we will always have extra bottles of oxygen in case of emergencies. This is why one must go on an expedition to any of the 6 thousand before heading to any 7000m. This will not only help you gain experience in the high altitude but also familiarize you with all the gears and equipment while handling extremely cold temperatures, gaining great crampon skills on and on the rock, snow, ice, rappelling with a pack on, and using ascenders and jumars on a fixed-line. Along with tolerance at a high altitude, you need strength, endurance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning.
NOTE: Prioritize your training efforts with the following techniques assuming you are in good health and injury-free;
01. Climbing Conditioning: Uphill climbing with a backpack, walking, and staircase climbing
02. Strength training for lower body and core
03. Cardiovascular Training: Include both aerobic and anaerobic workouts with and without pack-weight
04. Flexibility Training: Include stretches for overall body
Trip Facts
- Location: Nepal
- Himalayan Range: Annapurna Himal
- Height: 7134m. - (23,406 ft)
- Latitude: 28° 41′ 04″ N
- Longitude: 83° 48′ 16″ E
- Trip Duration: 36, 38, 40 Days
- Normal Ascent Route: North West Shoulder
- First Ascent: The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder.
- Easiest Route: Glacier/Snow
- Grade: Strenuous
- Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Besisahar - Chame - Manang Village - Tilicho Base Camp - Mesokanto Pass - Jomsom - Pokhara - Kathmandu
- Climbing Ratio: 1+1 (1 Member 1 Climbing Sherpa Guide)
- Hotel/Lodges/Camping
- 33 Days Trek/Climbing KTM-KTM
- Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu & Pokhara
- Accommodation: 4 Nights KTM, 1 Pokhara, 28 Nights Lodge/Camping
- Best Season: Spring, Autumn & Winter
Trip Highlights
Camp Details used typically during an expedition to Tilicho Peak:
Base Camp
- Location: Tilicho Base Camp is usually set up near Tilicho Lake, one of the highest lakes in the world, situated at an altitude of about 4,920 meters.
- Facilities: The base camp provides basic amenities for climbers to rest and acclimatize. Facilities include tents for sleeping, a dining tent, a kitchen, and sometimes a communication setup (satellite phones or radios).
- Activities: Acclimatization hikes around Tilicho Lake and surrounding areas.
Camp I
- Location: Camp I is generally established at an altitude of approximately 5,700 meters.
- Facilities: Tents for sleeping and a kitchen tent. Limited facilities due to the high altitude.
- Activities: Acclimatization and preparation for higher camps. Climbers often spend time here to adjust to the higher altitude.
Camp II
- Location: Camp II is typically set up at around 6,200 meters.
- Facilities: Basic camping setup with tents for sleeping and a small kitchen tent. The focus is on light and essential equipment.
- Activities: Further acclimatization and preparation for the summit push. Climbers rest and ensure all equipment is ready for the final ascent.
Camp III (Optional)
- Location: Some expeditions set up an additional camp at around 6,500 meters, depending on the team's strategy and conditions.
- Facilities: Minimal setup with just the essentials. The focus is on reducing the load for the summit push.
- Activities: Final rest before the summit attempt. Climbers often spend very little time here to conserve energy.
Summit Push
- Route: The final ascent to the summit involves technical climbing, including traversing snowfields, ice walls, and rocky sections.
- Timing: Climbers usually start the summit push early in the morning, around midnight or 1 AM, to reach the summit by early morning and return to lower camps by afternoon.
- Descent: After reaching the summit, climbers descend back to Camp II or Camp I for rest.
Additional Notes
- Weather: Weather conditions in the Himalayas can be unpredictable, so expeditions need to be flexible with their schedule.
- Permits: Climbing Tilicho Peak requires permits from the Department of Tourism “DoT” and other relevant authorities.
- Guides and Support: It is recommended to hire experienced guides and porters to assist with navigation, carrying equipment, and ensuring safety.
Expeditions to Tilicho Peak require thorough preparation, including physical training, acclimatization, and ensuring all necessary gear and provisions are ready for the high-altitude climb.
Itinerary
Cost includes
In Full board service:
Xtreme Climbers offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 7000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service, and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full-board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing routes in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, and oxygen and prepare high-altitude food for the client. Full board also indistinguishable clients on the route while ensuring their safety and well-being. We move at the client's preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the clients safety and well-being being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel, and food for high camps.
Full Board Service Cost Include:
- Arrival & Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation In Kathmandu: 4 nights 4**** Hotel in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast Basis-Twin bed Room.
- Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Tiliche 7134m, Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee) TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System), and other necessary permits.
- Member transportation Overland / By Air: Required necessary overland Tourist or private 4. WD reserved vehicles and necessary domestic flights required during the trip as per the scheduled program itinerary.
- Climbing Sherpa Guide: Highly experienced government-licensed trekking Guide during trekking and climbing Sherpa guide (Everest Summiter 1 member 1 Climbing Sherpa) during the entire climbing period
- Oxygen and Masks Regulators: Bottles of Oxygen will be reserved at BC and camp above for emergency use only with an appropriate additional charge will be provided with the Latest model of Summit or top-out system masks and regulators.
- Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved staff during the trek and expedition.
- Trekking Route Map. A trekking and climbing Route Map will be provided.
- Accommodation: Accommodation at a hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camp during the trekking / Climbing period
- Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff From Kathmandu-Mountain-Kathmandu.
- Member Luggage: Up to 40.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by Porters/Mules.
NOTE: Baggage more than 40.Kg p/p will charge additional with appropriate cost.
- Lodging & Fooding: Food and fuel for base camp and Camps above. Food 3 meals a day (BDL, including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Tea house/Camp during the trek and Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff. Appropriate high-altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above during the climbing period.
- Equipment: All required Tables, Chairs, Cooking utensils and equipment for Camping during the Trekking / Expedition.
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Duffel Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Porter: Required numbers of necessary porters.
- Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- Staff Salary and allowance: Equipment allowances and wages for all Nepalese staff & porters daily wages, climbing Sherpas Guide, Cooks, Kitchen assistants, and government liaison officers including equipment, food & clothing as per program.
- Base Camp equipment and Tent: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillows per member, Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent, Communication Tent, Toilet & Shower Tent, Staff Tent, Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, and Store tents. NOTE: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North-Face tent in Base Camp and camp above.
- Climbing Ropes: Required necessary fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period. For camps bove EPI gas and stove will be provided for cooking food.
- Communication: Radio Walkie Talkie and Thuraya Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. (SAT Phone available to clients at a cost of $5. USD per minute).
- Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
- Solar/Generator/Light: Solar panel or Generator for battery charge, light at base camp, and electronics charging proposed.
- Comprehensive Medical kit: First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff for basic use only.
- TAX and Office Charges: Our service charge and government Taxes.
- SUMMIT CERTIFICATE: Mt. Tilicho Peak climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA (after successful ascent over Putha Hiunchuli).
- Farewell Dinner: Farewell Dinner in a Tourist standard restaurant with Xtreme Climbers Staff.
Base Camp Service Cost Includes:
- Arrival & Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation In Kathmandu: 4 nights 4**** Hotel in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast Basis-Twin bed Room.
- Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Tiliche 7134m, Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee) TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System), and other necessary permits.
- Member transportation Overland / By Air: Required necessary overland Tourist or private 4.WD reserved vehicle and necessary domestic flights required during the trip as per scheduled program itinerary.
- Oxygen and Masks Regulators: Bottles of Oxygen will be reserved at BC and camp above for emergency use only with an appropriate additional charge will be provided with the Latest model of Summit or top-out system masks and regulators.
- Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved staff during the trek and expedition.
- Trekking Route Map. A trekking and climbing Route Map will be provided.
- Accommodation: Accommodation at a hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camp during trekking / Climbing period
- Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff From Kathmandu-Mountain-Kathmandu.
- Member Luggage: Up to 40.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by Porters/Mules.
NOTE: Baggage more than 40.Kg p/p will charge additional with the appropriate cost.
- Lodging & Fooding: Food and fuel for base camp and Camps above. Food 3 meals a day (BDL, including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Tea house/Camp during the trek and Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff. Appropriate high-altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp during the climbing period.
- Equipment: All required Tables, Chairs, Cooking utensils, and equipment for Camping during the Trekking / Expedition.
- XTREME CLIMBERS Equipment: Xtreme Climbers 120.ltr Duffel bags for each expedition member and for trekkers (2 members 1 Duffel Bag) Sun Hat and Mask will be provided.
- Porter: Required numbers of necessary porters.
- Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- Staff Salary and allowance: Equipment allowances and wages for all Nepalese staff & porters daily wages, climbing Sherpas Guide, Cooks, Kitchen assistants, and government liaison officers including equipment, food & clothing as per program.
- Base Camp equipment and Tent: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillows per member, Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent, Communication Tent, Toilet & Shower Tent, Staff Tent, Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, and Store tents. NOTE: Each member will have an individual VE-25 North-Face tent in Base Camp and camp above.
- Communication: Radio Walkie Talkie and Thuraya Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. (SAT Phone available to clients at a cost of USD 5 per minute).
- Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp.
- Solar/Generator/Light: Solar panel or Generator for battery charge, light at base camp, and electronics charging proposed.
- Comprehensive Medical kit: First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff for basic use only.
- TAX and Office Charges: Our service charge and government Taxes.
- Farewell Dinner: Farewell Dinner in a Tourist standard restaurant with Xtreme Climbers Staff.
NOTE: Above Base Camp Xtreme Climbers services will be “ZERO”
Cost Excludes
- Airfare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 120).
- Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- Extra night in Kathmandu or during the trip: Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
- Insurance: Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical & emergency evacuation.
- Rescue Evacuation: Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Medication, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization costs.)
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Filming: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Summit Bonus: The Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa USD 1200. (If the company offers Full Board Services).
- Customs Clearance: Nepal custom duty for import/export of expedition equipment
- Tips: Calculate some tips for Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, Personal climbing gears, or any other services or activities, that are not mentioned in the itinerary or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Base Camp service cost excludes:
- Airfare: Airfare of international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee: Nepal Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD 120). Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival link.
- Nepal Custom Duty of Import Equipments: Nepal custom duty for the import of expedition equipment
- Extra (Air/Land) Transportation Services: Transportation services include only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance traveled will be appropriately charged
- Climbing Sherpa Guide /Additional Staff: Climbing Sherpa Guide Or any additional staff other than those specified if the company provides BC service only.
- Personal Climbing gear, high camp meals, and equipment: Any personal Climbing gear and high Camp meals and equipment required during climbing above Base Camp.
- Member’s Medical / Heli Insurance: Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization, and emergency rescue evacuation expenses
- Medical or Emergency Heli Rescue Insurance: Travel/ Medical or any emergency Heli Rescue evacuation insurance.
- Filming / Drone permit: Filming or Drone permit (if you have a special camera)
- Internet Service: Internet services are not included in this cost.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, battery recharge, Hot shower, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages & soft drinks (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will serve all kinds of beverages for members in base camp), and also Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus minimum USD 1500.00. per climbing Sherpa guide
- Extra Night and Meals: Any extra Night and Meals during your stay in Kathmandu or during the trip than the scheduled itinerary Or any other expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and internet expenses, Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear Or any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount for Supporting staff and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary Or any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
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