![Sharphu IV [6433m] Climbing Expedition](https://xtremeclimbers.com/storage/package/banner/1745395267.jpg)
Trip Overview
Sharphu IV (6,433m) is a dramatic and technically challenging peak situated deep within the Kangchenjunga Conservation Area in eastern Nepal. Towering over a remote stretch of the Kangchenjunga Himal, this previously unclimbed mountain offers seasoned a...
Sharphu IV (6,433m) is a dramatic and technically challenging peak situated deep within the Kangchenjunga Conservation Area in eastern Nepal. Towering over a remote stretch of the Kangchenjunga Himal, this previously unclimbed mountain offers seasoned alpinists a rare opportunity to venture far off the beaten path into one of Nepal’s most pristine and unexplored alpine environments.
The mountain stands out for its rugged beauty and formidable terrain, featuring steep granite faces, vertical ice walls, exposed snowfields, and sharp ridgelines, all set against the breathtaking backdrop of Mount Kangchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest peak. The journey to Sharphu IV also takes climbers through some of Nepal’s most culturally rich and ecologically diverse regions, including traditional Limbu and Sherpa villages, dense rhododendron forests, and glacial valleys rarely visited by outsiders. Led and organized by Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd., this expedition successfully accomplished the first recorded ascent of Sharphu IV, an achievement that represents both a technical triumph and a milestone in modern Himalayan exploration.
The team approached the mountain from the Ghunsa Valley, following a rarely used caravan route that led to the eastern flanks of the Sharphu massif. After establishing a series of strategically placed high camps, the summit push commenced from High Camp II, navigating a complex alpine route that required advanced mixed climbing techniques and full commitment under high-altitude conditions. The expedition exemplified elite-level mountaineering, meticulous planning, and teamwork in one of the most remote sectors of the Nepal Himalaya.
Sharphu IV is now open to a new generation of climbers, those who seek not only technical difficulty, but also the authentic spirit of exploration and the beauty of unspoiled Himalayan wilderness.
Key NOTE: The Sharphu IV (6,433m) Expedition is a pioneering journey into one of the most remote and technically demanding climbing regions of Nepal—the Kangchenjunga Himal. Organized and led by Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd., this expedition made history with the first successful ascent of Sharphu IV, a previously unclimbed peak characterized by steep rock faces, vertical ice walls, and exposed snow ridges.
The route demanded expert alpine techniques, mixed climbing skills, and strategic acclimatization. The team approached via Ghunsa, establishing multiple high camps on a direct line to the summit. The climb culminated in a summit push from High Camp II, navigating through complex terrain under severe alpine conditions.
Trip Facts
- Region / Elevation: Kanchenjunga, Eastern Nepal / 6433m (Sharphu IV Peak) Unclimbed
- Caravan route: Taplejung-Dovan-Nilung-Sojang-Ghunsa-BC
- Caravan route length: 69.9 KM through Taplejung
- Elevation: 6433 M / 20249 FT
- Climbing Route: West Face
- Latitude 27*46’6” N Longitude 87*56’48” E
- Trekking / Climbing Grade: Adventurous / Highly technical and demanding climb, graded TD/6, with sustained steep ice, rock, and mixed terrain.
- Trip Type: Tea House and Tented Accommodation
- Mode of Transportation: Private Vehicle / Domestic Flight from to from during Expedition
- Group Size: Minimum 1 up to 10 participants
- Start/End Point: Kathmandu / Taplejung
- Total Duration: 25-30 Days
- First Ascender Team: Hernán David Leal Barrientos (Chile), Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (Nepal, Pangboche, Solukhumbu), Ngada Sherpa (Nepal, Taplejung) and Purnima Shrestha (Nepal, Aarughat-3, Gorkha)
Trip Highlights
- Challenging Climb: The ascent involves mixed terrain with steep snowfields, icy ridges, and technical sections, making it suitable for experienced climbers.
- Remote Location: Located near the Nepal-Tibet border, Sharphu IV offers unparalleled solitude and a sense of true exploration.
- Kanchenjunga Conservation Area: The trek to the peak traverses this biodiversity hotspot, home to endangered species like the red panda and snow leopard.
- Cultural Diversity: The trail passes through Limbu, Rai, and Tibetan-influenced villages, providing unique cultural insights.
- Panoramic Views: From the summit, climbers are rewarded with sweeping views of Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, and the Tibetan Plateau.
- Unique and Remote Destination: Few climbers have attempted Sharphu IV, adding an exclusive and exploratory element to the expedition.
- Technical Climbing: Gain hands-on experience navigating technical ice and snow routes.
- Rich Biodiversity: Explore the lush forests and alpine meadows of the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, teeming with rare flora and fauna.
- Cultural Immersion: Interact with local communities and experience their distinct traditions, hospitality, and way of life.
- Spectacular Mountain Vistas: The summit provides breathtaking views of nearby Himalayan giants, including Kanchenjunga, Jannu, and beyond.
Route & Camp Setup:
- Base Camp (4,500m) – Established in a remote glacial valley, where the team spent several days acclimatizing and finalizing logistics.
- Camp 1 (5,200m) – Positioned on a glacial plateau after an arduous ascent over moraine and ice-covered ridges.
- Camp 2 (5,800m) – A high-altitude camp set beneath the most technical section of the climb, featuring near-vertical ice, mixed terrain, and exposed rock gullies.
- Summit Push (6,433m) – The final ascent involved sustained technical climbing with sections graded TD/6, including steep ice, challenging rock pitches, and knife-edge ridges.
- Descent – The team successfully descended the same route, executing controlled rappels and careful navigation through exposed terrain, before returning safely to Base Camp.
Itinerary
Cost includes
- Arrival & Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
- Hotel Accommodation In Kathmandu: 4 nights 5***** Standard Hotel (single room) in Kathmandu on a bed & breakfast Basis.
- Permit: Expedition permit to Climb Sharphu 6433m, Kanchenjunga Special restricted area Trekking Permit, Conservation fee.
- Members + Trekking Stuffs and Transportation: All necessary equipment, Transportation for all Members and Staff,
Way Up:-- Kathmandu to Bhadrapur by Air
- Bhadrapur to Taplayjung to Sekathum by private four-wheel Jeep (6. pax max per jeep).
- Sekathum to Base Camp-Sekathum (By Mule or Porters) as per the scheduled itinerary.
While returning:-
Sekathum to Bhadrapur by private four-wheel Jeep (6. pax max per jeep).
Bhadrapur to Kathmandu (by Air) as per itinerary.
- Climbing / Trekking Sherpa Guide: Highly experienced government-licensed Climbing / trekking Sherpa Guide ( 1+1 Ratio 1 member 1 Client) during the climbing period
- Insurance: Medical, Accidental & Emergency rescue evacuation Insurance for all involved staff during the trekking and Climbing period.
- Accommodation: Accommodation at the best possible hotel/lodge/guest house during the entire trekking period.
- Member Luggage: Up to 25.Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by Porters/Mules.
NOTE: Baggage more than 25.Kg p/p will additionally be charged the appropriate cost.
- Lodging & Fooding: 3 meals a day (BDL, including tea and coffee, and fresh seasonal fruits as far as available along with accessible accommodation at the best available local Lodge/Tea house during the trek.
- During Camping at Base Camp and Camp Above: At Basecamp, a Well-managed base camp (Dining, Kitchen, toilet) with necessary kitchen and base camp utilities will be set up for members & Staff. For base camps above during climbing,g VE-25 North Face tent with high food, an EPI Gas Jet Bowl set for cooking purposes will be provided.
- Heater at BC: A Heater at BC will be provided to heat up the dining tent.
- Expedition Cook and Kitchen Staff: 1 Expedition Cook with two kitchen boys will be on standby during your stay at BC.
- Porter/Mules or Yak Transportation: Required number of Porters 1. Porter for two
members (25 kg max), Mules or Yak from Sekathum-Sharphu BC-Sekathum will be provided. From Sekathum to Bhadrapur by a reserved Private Jeep and Bhadrapur to Kathmandu by Flight.
- Staff Salary and allowance: Equipment allowances and wages for all Nepalese staff & porters, daily wages, Trekking Sherpa Guide, Cooks, and Kitchen assistant, including equipment, food & clothing as per program.
- Communication: Radio, Walkie Talkie, and Thuraya Satellite phones are carried by a guide for emergency communication. (SAT Phone available to clients at a cost of USD 5. USD per minute).
- Comprehensive Medical Kit: A comprehensive medical kit Box will be provided for Nepali emergency use only.
- Oxygen and Mask Regulator: A bottle of Oxygen and a set of Masks and Regulators will be provided for emergency use only.
- TAX and Office Charges: Company minimum service charge and government Taxes.
Cost Excludes
- Airfare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee USD 60 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days is USD 120). Please scroll below for the VISA application before or upon arrival
- Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- Extra night in Kathmandu: Extra night’s accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason), then the scheduled itinerary.
- Insurance (Medical, Accidental, and Rescue Evacuation): Travel and high-altitude insurance, accident, Helicopter medical & emergency evacuation. *Mandatory Medication, Medical Tests, and Hospitalization costs.
- Personal Expenses: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu, but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
- Personal Equipment: Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
- Toiletries: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean
- Filming: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- Internet Service: Not included during the trek/expedition
- Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing the Sherpa. Minimum USD 750.00 per climbing Sherpa guide. team only as well as for the Cameraman.
- Tips: Calculate a minimum of 10% of the total trip amount as tips for the entire trekking crew and Base camp staff.
- Extra: Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, Personal climbing gears or any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary or any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section
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