๐๐ญ๐ซ๐๐ฆ๐ ๐๐ฅ๐ข๐ฆ๐๐๐ซ๐ฌ ๐๐ซ๐๐ค๐ฌ & ๐๐ฑ๐ฉ๐๐๐ข๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง๐ฌ ๐๐ฏ๐ญ. ๐๐ญ๐. proudly announces the successful first ascent of ๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ง๐ญ ๐๐๐ญ๐ก๐ข๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ), ๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ญ๐ก-๐๐๐ฌ๐ญ located in the Kanchenjunga–Taplejung region of Eastern Nepal. The historic ascent was achieved on ๐๐๐ญ๐จ๐๐๐ซ ๐๐, ๐๐๐๐, ๐๐ญ ๐๐:๐๐ ๐ก๐ซ๐ฌ (๐๐๐ฉ๐๐ฅ ๐๐ข๐ฆ๐) by a fi ve-member international climbing team under the leadership of ๐๐ซ. ๐๐๐ซ๐งá๐ง ๐๐๐ฏ๐ข๐ ๐๐๐๐ฅ ๐๐๐ซ๐ซ๐ข๐๐ง๐ญ๐จ๐ฌ ๐จ๐ ๐๐ก๐ข๐ฅ๐.
This ascent marks a new chapter in Himalayan exploration as Mr. Leal, in partnership with Mr. Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa of Pangboche, Solukhumbu, has now successfully completed two fi rst ascents of previously unclimbed Himalayan peaks within a span of seven months, a world record in modern Himalayan mountaineering. Earlier this year, the same climber achieved the fi rst ascent of Mount๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ฉ๐ก๐ฎ ๐๐ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ) ๐จ๐ง ๐๐๐ซ๐๐ก ๐๐, ๐๐๐๐, also organized by ๐๐ญ๐ซ๐๐ฆ๐ ๐๐ฅ๐ข๐ฆ๐๐๐ซ๐ฌ ๐๐ซ๐๐ค๐ฌ & ๐๐ฑ๐ฉ๐๐๐ข๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง๐ฌ ๐๐ฏ๐ญ. ๐๐ญ๐.
๐๐๐จ๐ ๐ซ๐๐ฉ๐ก๐ข๐๐๐ฅ ๐๐ง๐ ๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ญ๐ ๐๐๐ญ๐๐ข๐ฅ๐ฌ:
Mount Pathibhara (6,686m), offi cially opened for climbing in 2025, stands in the Kanchenjunga, Taplejung region at coordinates 27°48′5009″ N / 88°11′1200″ E. The team successfully established the route from the South-East Face, overcoming highly technical mixed terrain characterized by loose rock, unstable ice, and exposed glaciated slopes.
๐๐๐ฆ๐ฉ ๐๐ฌ๐ญ๐๐๐ฅ๐ข๐ฌ๐ก๐ฆ๐๐ง๐ญ๐ฌ:
โ ๐๐๐ฌ๐ ๐๐๐ฆ๐ฉ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ): Located on a secluded glacial basin; established as the primary operations and acclimatization point.
โ ๐๐ข๐ ๐ก ๐๐๐ฆ๐ฉ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ): Reached after six hours of ascent through steep rockfall zones.
โ ๐๐๐ฆ๐ฉ ๐ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ): Situated on a glacier plateau following a demanding climb across ice ridges and moraine with signifi cant avalanche and crevasse risk (approx. 3 hours from HC).
โ ๐๐๐ฆ๐ฉ ๐๐ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ): Set beneath the steepest section of the climb, involving near-vertical ice and mixed terrain with sustained exposure (approx. 2 hours from C1).
โ ๐๐ฎ๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ข๐ญ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ): Reached after 11 hours of continuous technical climbing on mixed ice, rock, and snow ridges classifi ed at TD/7 grade diffi culty. Descent was safely made along the same route using controlled rappels and fi xed-line protection.
๐๐๐ฒ ๐๐๐ก๐ข๐๐ฏ๐๐ฆ๐๐ง๐ญ๐ฌ
โ โ
๐
๐ข๐ซ๐ฌ๐ญ ๐๐ฌ๐๐๐ง๐ญ: First Ascent of Mount Pathibhara (6,686m) via the South-East Route
โ โ
๐๐จ๐ซ๐ฅ๐ ๐๐๐๐จ๐ซ๐: Two Himalayan First Ascents (Sharphu IV and Pathibhara) achieved within 7 months
โ โ
๐
๐ข๐ซ๐ฌ๐ญ ๐๐ฌ๐๐๐ง๐ญ: First ascent on a Himalayan peak newly opened for climbing in 2025
โ โ
๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ญ๐ ๐๐ข๐๐๐ข๐๐ฎ๐ฅ๐ญ๐ฒ: Route diffi culty TD/7 – mixed ice, rock, and steep snow terrain
โ โ
๐๐ซ๐ ๐๐ง๐ข๐ณ๐๐ ๐๐ง๐ ๐ฆ๐๐ง๐๐ ๐๐ ๐๐ฒ: Organized and managed by Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd., Kathmandu, Nepal
๐
๐ข๐ซ๐ฌ๐ญ ๐๐ฌ๐๐๐ง๐ญ ๐๐๐๐ฆ – ๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ง๐ญ ๐๐๐ญ๐ก๐ข๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ (๐,๐๐๐๐ฆ)
1. ๐๐๐ซ๐งá๐ง ๐๐๐ฏ๐ข๐ ๐๐๐๐ฅ ๐๐๐ซ๐ซ๐ข๐๐ง๐ญ๐จ๐ฌ (๐๐ก๐ข๐ฅ๐)– Expedition Leader & Summiteer
2. ๐๐๐ค๐ฉ๐ ๐๐ก๐ก๐ข๐ซ๐ข ๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ฉ๐ (๐๐๐ฉ๐๐ฅ, ๐๐๐ง๐ ๐๐จ๐๐ก๐, ๐๐จ๐ฅ๐ฎ๐ค๐ก๐ฎ๐ฆ๐๐ฎ)– Lead Climbing Sherpa & Co-Summiteer (13+ Everest ascents, multiple 7000m/8000m summits)
3. ๐๐ก๐๐ค๐ฉ๐ ๐๐ก๐ก๐ข๐ซ๐ข๐ง๐ ๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ฉ๐ (๐๐๐ฉ๐๐ฅ, ๐๐๐ง๐ ๐๐จ๐๐ก๐, ๐๐จ๐ฅ๐ฎ๐ค๐ก๐ฎ๐ฆ๐๐ฎ)– Climbing Sherpa (10+ Everest summits, extensive Himalayan experience)
4. ๐๐ฎ๐ง๐ ๐ ๐๐ฒ๐๐ฃ๐ฎ ๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ฉ๐ (๐๐๐ฉ๐๐ฅ, ๐๐ก๐ฎ๐ฆ๐ฃ๐ฎ๐ง๐ , ๐๐จ๐ฅ๐ฎ๐ค๐ก๐ฎ๐ฆ๐๐ฎ)– Climbing Sherpa (5+ Everest summits, extensive Himalayan experience)
5. ๐๐๐ฆ๐ ๐๐๐ฌ๐ข ๐๐๐ฆ๐๐ง๐ (๐๐๐ฉ๐๐ฅ, ๐๐ก๐จ๐ญ๐๐ง๐ , ๐๐ข๐ง๐๐ก๐ฎ๐ฉ๐๐ฅ๐๐ก๐จ๐ค)– Climbing Sherpa & Expedition Photographer (Multiple 7000m/8000m ascents)
๐๐ข๐ ๐ง๐ข๐๐ข๐๐๐ง๐๐ ๐๐ง๐ ๐๐๐๐จ๐ ๐ง๐ข๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง: This ascent represents not only the fi rst human footsteps on Mount Pathibhara but also a historic dual-fi rst-ascent record accomplished within the same calendar year. It highlights the outstanding collaboration between international alpinists and Nepali high-altitude specialists, emphasizing both nations’ commitment to the continued exploration of Nepal’s newly opened peaks.
As of October 15, 2025, the team is safely descending from Camp II (5,845m) to Base Camp. Technical route data, photographic documentation, and summit verifi cation, including the exact coordinates and summit elevation, will be submitted to the Department of Tourism (DoT), Government of Nepal, and the Himalayan Database upon the expedition’s return to Kathmandu.
