Press Release: Historic First Ascent of The Sharphu IV (6,433m)
March 27, 2025
Press Release: Historic First Ascent of The Sharphu IV (6,433m)

Kathmandu, March 25, 2025 – Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. is proud to announce the historic first ascent of Sharphu IV (6,433m), a previously unclimbed peak in the remote Kangchenjunga region of Nepal. Recognized as one of the most technically demanding climbs in the area, the ascent required navigating steep rock faces, vertical ice walls, complex snowfields, and razor-sharp ridges, demanding exceptional technical skill, strategic planning, and advanced mountaineering expertise.

This groundbreaking achievement marks a significant milestone in Himalayan mountaineering, accomplished through meticulous planning, technical expertise, and unwavering determination.

On March 25, 2025, at 3:00 PM, an elite team comprising Three renowned Nepali climbers and one 59-year-old businessman, writer, motivational speaker, and professional mountaineer, successfully reached the summit, overcoming extreme subzero temperatures, steep ice, technical rock sections, and exposed ridgelines. The ascent was made possible through strategic acclimatization, high-altitude rotations, and precision route-setting, solidifying this achievement as a remarkable feat in modern alpinism.

Route & Camp Setup:

  • Climbed Route: West Face
  • Latitude 27*46’6” N Longitude 87*56’48” E
  • Base Camp (4,500m) – Established in a remote glacial valley, where the team spent several days acclimatizing and fi nalizing logistics.
  • Camp 1 (5,200m) – Positioned on a glacial plateau after an arduous ascent over moraine and ice-covered ridges.
  • Camp 2 (5,800m) – A high-altitude camp set beneath the most technical section of the climb, featuring near-vertical ice, mixed terrain, and exposed rock gullies.
  • Summit Push (6,433m) – The fi nal ascent involved sustained technical climbing with sections graded TD/6, including steep ice, challenging rock pitches, and knife-edge ridges.
  • Descent – The team successfully descended the same route, executing controlled rappels and careful navigation through exposed terrain, before returning safely to Base Camp.


Summit Team:

  1. Hernán David Leal Barrientos (Chile) – Accomplished mountaineer, entrepreneur, and motivational speaker with extensive experience in high-altitude climbing.
  2. Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (Nepal, Pangboche, Solukhumbu) – Lead climbing guide with a distinguished record of Himalayan ascents including 13* Everest Summit and numerous other 7000 and 8000m Mountain.
  3. Ngada Sherpa (Nepal, Taplejung) – Expert climbing guide with significant experience in technical ascents as well the First person to make a first ascent on both Sherphu IV 6433m and Sharphu Vi 6076m.
  4. Purnima Shrestha (Nepal, Aarughat-3, Gorkha) – Climbing team member with a passion for high-altitude exploration and mountaineering Photographer. The first person to climb Mt. Everest 8848.86m 3 times within Thirteen Days.


Key Highlights:

  • The first recorded ascent of Sharphu IV (6,433m), established a new route in the Kangchenjunga region.
  • Highly technical and demanding climb, graded TD/6, with sustained steep ice, rock, and mixed terrain.
  • Strategic acclimatization and high-altitude rotations, ensure a safe and efficient ascent.
  • Exceptional teamwork, resilience, and precise execution, overcoming extreme alpine conditions.
  • Comprehensive documentation of the expedition, including high-quality footage for an upcoming documentary.


A Pioneering Achievement in Himalayan Alpinism


This first ascent of Sharphu IV (6,433m) highlights the relentless spirit of exploration and technical excellence that defines Himalayan mountaineering. The expedition’s success underscores the expertise of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. in leading high-altitude, first-ascent expeditions in some of the most challenging environments on Earth.

We extend our deepest gratitude to the entire support team, whose dedication and expertise played a crucial role in ensuring the success of this expedition.

“Congratulations to the entire team on this historic achievement”.

For media inquiries, interviews, or further information, please contact:

๐Ÿ“ฉ Mail: info@xtremeclimbers.com

Website: www.xtremeclimbers.com

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